Gina Ruiz

My Grandmother’s Aprons

She's wearing an apron :)

You can't see it, but she's wearing her apron.

The only times I remember seeing my Grandma Lupe without her apron on was on Sundays when we walked over to the little church Cristo Rey on Perlita Avenue.  On those days she looked elegant and wore lipstick.  As soon as we got home though, she would change her church clothes and put on an apron.  I loved those aprons.  To me, they represented warmth, plenty, love and goodness.  They were part of my grandma and I learned to love those worn aprons almost as much as I loved her.

The aprons were handmade, usually by my Auntie Jessie who was a whiz with the sewing machine.  They were made of flour sack or plain cotton, old sheets, whatever material they found.  They had large pockets and sometimes were embroidered.  My grandmother did the most beautiful, delicate embroidery.  Even the sheets, dish towels and pillowcases were edged in her lovely crochet and decorated with embroidery.  Sometimes those big pockets had sweet treats for a much-loved grandchild, the same way mine do.

On bad days at home away from my beloved grandparents, I would cling to the apron she gave me and remember hers.  It comforted me much like a security blanket comforts a toddler.  That apron told me someone loved me, that there was a creaky little house near Los Feliz filled with warmth, laughter and puro amor.

She called me her Reina del cielo (queen of heaven) and when I walked in the door fresh from being picked up by bus (my grandfather would take three buses to where I lived and then bring me back on three more) on school vacations, there she was: that sweet, loving woman who would open her arms wide and I would run into them feeling safe, loved and finally home.  Her apron smelled of her unique scent – rose petals, herbs, chilis, onion, garlic and the sweet smelling furniture wax she used on her wood. The smells from the kitchen were more tantalizing and delicious.

I was home.  Really home.  This was where I belonged and the home of my heart.  It still is even though she’s been gone over 20 years.  That home she gave me lives on in my heart and is my biggest sanctuary however far I roam and against any challenges that arise.

I loved folding her aprons after they’d been laundered.  She had an apron drawer in her kitchen.  Piles of neatly folded aprons lay there waiting to serve her.  The stories and recipes they could tell if only they could speak!  My grandmother was THE cook of the neighborhood and as you turned down the corner on Goodwin Avenue, you could smell whatever she was cooking all the way down the street.  Everyone loved her.  She and my grandfather were known in the neighborhood for their kindness and generosity though they had little.  They’d never dream of accepting money for help and always, always would come of the words of my Papa saying, *“no cobramos por ayuda.”  They were loved.

Yesterday, a UPS man knocked at my door with a package from Foodbuzz.  I opened it and there was a coupon for a free Alexia Foods entree and yes, you guessed it, an apron.  As I held the apron up to show my son, the memories of my grandmother’s aprons came flooding in and brought me to tears.  I told my son the story about my grandmother’s aprons and he said to me, “Wow Mom, she sounds amazing.  I wish I had known her.  Thanks for writing about her.  Make sure you write about the aprons.”

This is the apron Alexia Foods and Foodbuzz sent me

Disclosure:  Alexia Foods sent me a free apron and a free coupon.  The apron is the awesome by the way and I haven’t cashed in the coupon yet to try their product but I will and I’ll write about it with another Federally mandated disclosure that I got stuff for free.

*For Spanish or Spanglish words, I’m not going to translate them.  I used to get the “look it up” answer if I asked what a word was and i sure did learn, so si quieres saber, LOOK IT UP.

Aiden’s Midnight Fig Jam

Frigidaire and Jennifer Garner are teaming up to inspire families everywhere to roll up their sleeves and get cooking together. Starting today, people can join in the Frigidaire Kids’ Cooking Academy ( www.maketimeforchange.com) to get great recipes, how-to videos and tips, all designed to help involve kids in the kitchen.

My kid-friendly recipe is one for a fig jam I made this summer with my grandchildren on a hot night when we couldn’t sleep for the heat.  It was tons of fun making it and I love the idea that every or every post submitted, Foodbuzz and Frigidaire will donate $50 to Save the Children.

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It’s 12:45 a.m after one of the hottest days of summer.  It was 105 degrees!

The grandkids who are visiting for this week can’t sleep, house is too hot and my a/c wall unit is icing over.  What to do, what to do?  In the fridge was a massive bowl of the past two days harvest of figs from our tree just begging me to do something with but it’s been too darned hot.  I took an almost midnight shower and came out to two small children that were hot, grumpy, tired and in need of something, anything to do to get them to relax enough to sleep.  I went to the fridge, saw that big bowl of figs and remembered the jam I had been intending to make.  “Who wants to have a midnight jam session?” I asked the kids.  “We do!”

I had had an idea in mind on how to make my jam, an older recipe that called for cinnamon, lemon rind, fresh figs and sugar but whenever the kids help me cook, things change.  I really like letting them improvise and find their way around my kitchen.  We discuss flavors and ideas all the time.  They’ve been cooking with me since before I started Dona Lupe’s so I’ve learned to trust them the way they trust in me.

Insomniac grandkids

Aiden took charge of this jam session.  He just turned five on Friday the 20th and was in a very assertive mood.  He handed me a bottle of caraway seed and said, “Grammy use this, it almost smells like figs.”  Into the simmering cinnamon and water it went.  What the heck, how bad could it be?  I searched for lemons but we were out and being midnight by now, we were out of luck with a store.  David suggested the rice vinegar in the pantry for a little acidity and it made sense to me so I added it.  This was so not the jam I had planned on but as we all took turns chopping figs and adding them to the pot, the kitchen was starting to smell amazing.

Chop, chop, chop

Once the figs were all in the pot, Aiden handed me a jar.  Surprised, I looked down at a square box of chili powder from the Indian store I frequent in Los Feliz.  “Put some of that in Grammy” he said seriously.  I nodded and added about two tablespoons, stirred it in with crossed fingers and tasted.  Oh. My. God.  That was some amazing jam!  Things happen in midnight jam sessions, things you’d never expect but surprisingly sweet and good.

Jam!

We’re going on 1:00 a.m. now and the kids are drifting off to sleep while Aiden’s Midnight Fig Jam is slowly simmering on the stove.  When he wakes tomorrow there will be toast smeared with his jam and the day, however hot it turns out to be will keep that spicy sweetness.

Aiden’s Midnight Fig Jam

5 lbs of fresh figs, washed, trimmed and chopped roughly
3 c. Sugar
1 cinnamon stick
3 c. of water
Pinch caraway seeds
4 tablespoons of rice vinegar
2 tablespoons of dark red chili powder

Set a large pot with the water and cinnamon stick to boil, then bring to a slow simmer.

Trim off the points and ends of the figs and rough chop them.  Add the caraway seeds to the simmering cinnamon water, the sugar and rice vinegar.  Stir until well blended.

Add the chopped figs, the chili powder and stir slowly.  Let simmer for two hours till well thickened, stirring frequently so the sugar doesn’t burn and stick to the bottom of your pot.

Remove the cinnamon stick, let cool and store in Mason jars using proper canning techniques.

Best cooked at midnight to the strains of Luciano Pavaroti (you know we had to listen to Figaro), Lauryn Hill and Trio Los Panchos.  Insomniac grandchildren optional.

The Simple Joy of the (Un)Common Tortilla

tortillas

When I was growing up the best thing in the world to eat was a fresh flour tortilla right off the comal.  My grandmother Lupe would always slather the fluffy, white moon-shaped tortilla in butter and roll it up, tucking in the ends and wrapping it in a paper towel so I would drip butter everywhere.  She’d look down and smile while placing the treat in my hands.  I’d thank her and skip off with my treasure, braids swinging behind me as my little patent leather Mary Janes clicked on the creaky wood floors.  I’d usually head out to the garden or patio and eat my tortilla.  The melted butter and the soft floury texture of it tingled my tastebuds and no matter what I did, a little butter always dripped onto my chin.  It was perfection and I’d always want another.

Sometimes I’d try to roll them out in the kitchen with my grandparents.  I could never get them as perfectly round as my Papa could and he’d laugh and call them my 50 states, meaning that I made about 50 different shapes as randomly structured as states on a map.  He was proud of every single, weirdly angled tortilla I made though and showed them off proudly even if they were more than slightly triangular.

Butter tortillas, as I called them then were moments of pure bliss.  Simple as they were, they brought sheer unadulterated happiness and always, always a smile.  My sisters loved them too and we’d simply crave them far more than any ice cream or candy.  For some reason, the tortillas with butter signified home, family, being loved and cared for and brought with them the warmth and happiness of my grandparents house.

I’m 49 years old now and when things are going badly or I feel a little lonely nothing makes me happy again like a homemade flour tortilla, slathered in butter and rolled up with a little jacket of paper towel just like Grandma made.  I make them for my grandchildren now and they love them just as much as I did.  I caught myself the other day standing at the stove, handing Aiden and Jasmine a perfectly rolled tortilla with butter and was struck by the fact that it was me on the other end, my grandmother’s side handing out the tortilla.  As Jasmine skipped out of the kitchen, I saw myself at that age and hoped that her tortilla daydreams were just as wonderful as mine used to be.

There is something to be said for simplicity and the joy of plain, comfortable things.  My world is fast-paced, crazy sometimes, filled with information and sensory overload.  I can make it stop though by the simple act of making the simplest of doughs, rolling out a now perfect circle, heating it on a comal and turning it into a memory of a slower, happier time and taste the magic of my childhood.

Christmas Traditions & Memories

Grandma & Papa taught me the true spirit of Christmas

From my window far from home I can see snow on the rooftops.  The day is sunny and bright, but I can see the snow clouds closing in.  There will be more snow before I get home to family and friends for Christmas.  I’m nostalgic this morning, remembering old Christmas traditions, things I never did with my children and things we did do.  Through the veil of memory, the traditions I left behind now make me ache with a longing for another time, another place, those amazing people that are now gone who were the spirits of the season for me and everyone around them.  I am swept away remembering…

A creaky old frame house on Goodwin Avenue in Los Angeles, painted white with green trim and gardens everywhere.  My Papa’s (grandfather) garaje was set in the back and there he had a dark and dusty workshop, magical to a kid like me where he had jars of nails, screws and seeds for the garden.  The stable he made for Christmas also lived there and he’d touch it up each year, if not rebuild it.

At Christmas time, my grandmother Lupe would send me and my Aunt Jessie down to the basement to rummage amongst the boxes of lights, decorations, ornaments and most importantly, the nativity scene.  I loved picking up the tiny sheep, the large camels, the donkey and other animals.  I was too small to lift the huge Italian-made Mary, Joseph and the three wise men.  One majestically rode upon his camel and I loved to touch it.  The folds in his robes were so real looking, I kept expecting fabric not plaster. Most beautiful of all was the life-sized baby Jesus, in his little blue satin dress with the gold trim my Aunt Jessie had made him.  He was so real looking.  His beautiful little glass eyes and his open mouth with tiny teeth made him look just like a real baby.  We loved him and always reverently touched his outreached hands or stroked his plaster curls and made sure his little socks covered his feet so he wouldn’t be cold.  We would bring him up from the basement, but he wouldn’t go into the stable.  Not yet.

My Papa would bring in the hand made stable he had built.  We’d lay pine boughs over the roof so it smelled good and kept Mary and Joseph dry and warm.  My grandparents were determined that if they must be in a stable, it would be a well covered one.  We’d spend hours laying down hay, determining where the animals all went, making sure the star above it was always lit and carefully placing the cradle basket for Baby Jesus to lie in.  My Auntie Jessie would make sure the blankets and pillows in it were perfect, if not she went and made more till it was perfect.  And there the cradle sat, waiting for days in anticipation of the Christ child.

At midnight on Christmas Eve (Noche Buena) we would all bundle up and walk to the parish church for midnight mass.  I loved going and being able to stay up late.  When we got back, my grandmother would gently lay the Baby Jesus into his cradle.  We’d line up and each of us would give him a kiss and welcome him to the world anew.  I always whispered, “Happy birthday.”  It was always a joyous night.  We’d be given hot champurrado and a little pan dulce, then scooted off to bed to dream of Santa Claus and presents. The whole family was together then, aunts, uncles, cousins all spending the night scattered all over the house, waiting for Christmas day.  Christmas day was a bustle of presents, food, lots of people and noise but to my mind then and now it didn’t compare with the magic of Noche Buena and the welcoming of the little Lord Jesus.

Latism, Sprint and the Jorge Posada Foundation

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My new phone. Isn't it pretty? Oh and those are my son's fingers. I'm yelling at him about his nails now.

This is not a post about food. This is a post about gratitude.

I’ve been incredibly honored and privileged to join in with the hashtag group called LATISM on Twitter. LATISM stands for Latinos in Social Media and they are one unbelievably supportive group. Anyone can join in the conversations or the weekly Twitter chat parties which have great topics and info. There’s always an after-party where favorite music is shared. It’s a fun group, always informative and one I love hanging out with every day on Twitter.

Recently, LATISM and Sprint supported the Jorge Posada Foundation, in a Celebrity Basebowl Tournament benefitting the charity. The Jorge Posada Foundation is a non-profit organization established by the New York Yankees’ All-Star Catcher, Jorge Posada, and his wife, Laura supporting Craniosynostosis (CS). The purpose of The Jorge Posada Foundation is to: reach out to families in need, whose children are affected by Craniosynostosis, and provide them with emotional support through its family support network; provide financial assistance to underwrite a portion of the costs of initial surgeries in its partner medical centers; and encourage further research of this medical condition. The Foundation also strives to create awareness about the condition through events and through funding other educational outreach efforts. You can find out more on their Facebook page.

Some LATISM members were there at the event Tweeting about it and sharing their impressions with the rest of us on Twitter. Their contributions were exciting and made the rest of us feel we were there. Sprint and Laura Posada hosted the live Twitter chat from Yankee Stadium, with Laura (@dlauraposada on Twitter) tweeting and sending pics from her Samsung Epic 4G from Sprint. One of the new 4G phones was to be won by people on Twitter who were participating in the chat. I was so caught up in the event and Tweeting that I had completely forgotten there was a phone to win until I saw Elianne Ramo’s Tweet that I had won it. I almost fainted. I’ve NEVER won anything, EVER until a few weeks ago when I won the chance to throw a POM party (blog post soon) and to win such an amazing phone blew me away. I was jumping up and down here at my house, screaming like a loca and my son thought I had lost my mind. I finally calmed down and life settled back to normal.

Then the FEDEX man showed up yesterday with the phone. OMG! This thing is beautiful! It has dual cameras, video, Twitter (yay), Facebook, a ton of aps, all kinds of neat features (I’m still exploring it) and it’s incredibly intuitive. It even has TV! Jasmine can watch Nickelodeon on it! Baseball fans, it’s signed by Jorge Posada! My sons are jealous. The phone is an amazing business tool, a great phone and for once, I’ve got the cooler thing than my kids. Chauuuuuuuuuu! It’s the best early birthday/blogaversary present EVER! Beyond the superpadrissimoness of the phone, Sprint gave me full service for a year! I’m overwhelmed with gratitude to them, to LATISM and to the Jorge Posada Foundation.

The first pic I took using the phone. Hey it was gonna be either the grandkids or the dog and the grandkids weren't here.

Here’s where it ties into food: There are 1000′s of recipe aps on this thing! I’ve now got about ten already downloaded, including one with like 8,000 cocktail recipes. I want someone to make a Doña Lupe’s Kitchen ap for it lol.

Disclosure: I won the phone. I wasn’t required to do anything once I got it. No one asked me to post on my blog.

Please consider donating to the Jorge Posada Foundation and learning more about CS. Follow #LATISM on Twitter and fall in love with that group as I have. You won’t be sorry. Oh and Sprint? They just got a customer for life.

Yes Marissa, I promise to stop calling you at 7:00 a.m. to talk to Jasmine and Aiden just because I have a new phone and I promise not to download too many Barbie aps for Jas (fingers may be crossed on that one, I’m taking the 5th).

***Update:  Jasmine and Aiden have now taken over the phone and are watching Fishhooks on the Disney Channel on it.  I guess I’ll get to play with it again after they go home.

Descanso

altar

Pan de Muertos at Lincoln Park Ceremony

The people on my altar for day of the dead are all very special. They were loved, are loved still and are missed profoundly. With each one of them there is a recipe or dish I make on November 2nd in honor of their memory. In my home, we also read poetry, play music and tell stories about them so their memory stays alive.

For my grandmother Lupe, there are always oranges. She grew up in Piru, California around lots of orange orchards. They were her favorite fruit and I always remember how she trimmed long, unbroken curls of orange which fell into her lap. She used those later to make her rose petal sachets. I put oranges all around the altar and there is always a bowl full of chocolate-orange sticks, her favorite candy. Sometimes I make homemade orangette.

Building an altar

For my Papa Chava, there is chicharonnes cooked in green chile sauce and a huge plate of bunuelos with syrup I make from scratch. I always make sure to char a few flour tortillas and set them on the altar. He loved them slightly burnt, which we could never figure out.

For David, dear friend and mentor, I make my German chocolate cake that he loved so much. I play the CD that was given out at his memorial back in 2005, so he has the music he loved.

There are other little things on the altar, pictures, recuerdos, a ribbon, a feather from a fallen dancer’s headpiece, a little drum, a baby sock from my little half-niece Desiree who died so young. There are mangoes, cempaxochitl flowers (marigolds), pineapples, tunas (prickly pear) and squash. There are little sugar skulls and skeletons, a statue of the Virgen de Guadalupe, a picture of Emiliano Zapata and old family photos of relatives no longer here. It takes about four hours to put our altar together and we usually do it at Parque de Mexico in Lincoln Heights during our Danza Azteca cermony. This year, due to illness it will be a scaled back version here at home. The spirit is the same though and for this special night, we commune with our antepasados (ancestors) in a family party.

Danzantes

We make pan de muertos and put copal in the copalero and light it so that the sweet smoke perfumes the air. Boleros with singers like Trio Los Panchos play all night long and I sit with my grandchildren and tell them about the people they never met. Jasmine and Aiden know my grandmother and grandfather well and my hope is that they will carry on this tradition and tell their own grandchildren the stories along with stories of their own.


The Aztec dancers in my dance group believe that we stand on the shoulders of our ancestors, that we stand strong and true and proud on our history, our culture and our family ties. I believe that will everything in me and I believe in fostering that belief and tradition – that culture that is ours in my grandchildren.

Happy dia de los muertos everyone.

How Tía Lola Makes Rice the Dominican Way: A Guest Post by Julia Alvarez

how tia lola learned to teach cover

Doña Lupe’s Kitchen is again graced and honored with a lovely guest post by author Julia Alvarez. Thank you so much Julia for sharing your family recipes and stories!
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You’d think that white rice would be the one of the easiest dishes to make. After all, there are only two ingredients: rice and water! You do also add oil and salt, but basically, simply, you are just playing with two ingredients. The rest is chemistry. However, as some of you who took chemistry in high school might painfully remember, and I certainly do, chemistry isn’t necessarily the easiest subject in the world.
Here’s an admission: neither Bill nor I have been able to make rice as good as Tía Lola’s rice, which is to say, as good as my aunts make it in the Dominican Republic. We’ve wondered if their consistently excellent rice has to do with the pots they use: old aluminum ollas purchased in el mercado. But we’ve bought those pots and brought them to Vermont, and although our rice tastes better, it’s doesn’t taste as good as Tía Lola’s or my tías’ rice in the Dominican Republic.

Bill and I haven’t given up. Every time we go visit la familia, we watch with eagle eyes how my tías cook their rice. Just as with sofrito, each one has her own individual touch for making arroz blanco. One tía swears that covering the rice at the end with wax paper as well as a lid is what gives the rice that perfect texture of single, separate, but moist grains. Another tía claims her secret is heating the oil in the pot before adding the water and salt. A third tía shakes her head and snorts, “That’s ridiculous! You put in the oil after all the water has disappeared and bubbles start to form.” The amazing thing is that despite their different methods, my tías rice all tastes consistently, deliciously the same. But when Bill and I try their recipes stateside, our rice doesn’t taste like theirs. Ours ends up too gooey, too sticky, too dry, too overdone. So, I’ve finally come to the conclusion that in addition to their ingredients and procedures, my tías also use a little santería, as voodoo mixed with Catholicism is known on the Dominican side of the island.

So, below is the basic recipe that Bill and I keep trying to perfect. After following the directions, you might want to recite your own little magical spell over the boiling rice, just in case.
One last thing. In the Dominican Republic, there’s a special side dish that results from cooking the rice: con-con. It’s what sticks to the bottom and sides of the pot that you scrape out. Crunchy and saturated with oil, it’s my favorite part.

Use equal parts water and washed white rice.
(Be sure to use long grain rice–shorter grain rice is more sticky and good for sushi. Arborio rice, also short grained, is good for creamy risottos.)

Heat a couple of tablespoons olive oil or canola oil in a pot. Then add the water with a teaspoon of salt or bouillon cube if you prefer

When the water is boiling, add the rice. Stir a few times. Let rice boil until all the water has disappeared and bubbles form. Cover and cook over low heat for 15-20 minutes more.

Say your magical spell, uncover, and serve.

Don’t forget to scrape the sides for con-con!

© 2010 by Julia Alvarez

How Tía Lola Cooks Her Beans the Dominican Way: Guest Post by Author Julia Alvarez

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Habichuelas from our farm in the Dominican Republic < cafealtagracia.com>
Photographs courtesy of Julia Alvarez and Bill Eichner

In How Tía Lola Learned to Teach, one of Tía Lola’s favorite sayings is “En todas partes cuecen habas“: Everywhere people cook beans. In other words, despite superficial differences, people are the same the whole world over.

But why beans? Miguel and Juanita would much rather Tía Lola make up a new saying like, “Everywhere people like ice cream,” or, “Everywhere people like to go to Disney World.” But actually beans have been around long before ice cream or Disney World. Not everyone in the world can afford to visit theme parks or purchase treats, but almost every culture has some variety of beans that form the staple of the diet. It might be lentils in India, or green peas in theEnglish-speaking Caribbean islands, or chick peas in the Middle East, or baked beans in the USA, but Tía Lola is right: beans are everywhere. It’s an important protein source, especially for people too poor to afford meat.

In the Spanish-speaking Americas, beans are very popular. In Mexico and Central America, they are called frijoles. But in the Dominican Republic, where Tía Lola is from, they are known as habichuelas, and they are often served over rice. That combination, rice and beans, is a complete protein, a good thing, as this duo is the staple of the poor man’s diet. But don’t get me wrong. This is no impoverished dish. If you cook beans Tía Lola’s way, you will have a rich, savory treat you can ladle over rice or serve as a side dish.

Before we get started on the beans, I have to explain what a sofrito is. It’s what you use to season the beans, and in fact, a sofrito is the seasoning base for many Dominican dishes. Stir-fry garlic and onions with tomatoes (or tomato paste), bell peppers (the garlic, onions, bell peppers, and tomatoes should be cut into small pieces), along with wine vinegar, oregano, cumin, coriander, red-pepper flakes, pepper and salt, and whatever else you’d like to add or omit. You are making your very own savory base, so you can be creative. Every cook has her own sofrito. Often, as Tía Lola can tell you, a good cook is known for her buen sazón, good seasoning. It’s like having a good bone structure if you want to be a model.

Tía Lola’s recipe comes to me via my husband Bill, who managed somehow to get the recipe from my tías. Bill, as you might guess, is the cook in the family. I actually wanted to learn to cook when I was growing up. But back then, in the Dominican Republic, there were so many tías in the kitchen, getting in each other’s way, offering their different opinions on what flavor was missing in a certain dish. (I told you every good cook has her very own sofrito.) The last thing Mami needed was a young girl, getting underfoot, asking questions. “Not now,” Mami would say, shooing me out of the kitchen. “Why don’t you go do something useful? Why don’t you go read a book?”

As a result I grew to adulthood without really knowing how to make my own sofrito or how to cook a flan or tostones or mangú con cebollitas. When Bill and I married, we continued visiting la familia in the Dominican Republic. Bill loved my tías cooking, which totally endeared him to them. Soon enough, he was being invited into their kitchens. Every trip, Bill would come back to Vermont with a new recipe and the ingredients in his suitcase. So, it was really Bill who taught me to make habichuelas the way my tías taught him how to make them.

Meanwhile, I seemed to have followed my mother’s orders after all. I not only read books, I also now write them. And Bill does most of the cooking in our household. Actually, Bill did write a book himself, a cookbook, based on all the recipes he learned from his mom growing up in Nebraska; from his travels in Latin America, India, the Middle East; and from my aunts in the Dominican Republic. The book is called The New Family Cookbook by Bill Eichner, published by Chelsea Green Publishing Company (sadly out of print***). The recipe for habichuelas below is taken from that book, and it is the one Bill learned from my aunts.

Serves: 9 to 12 (depending on whether this is used as a main dish or a side dish)
2 pounds dried pinto or Colorado beans
1 cup dried kidney beans
Bill recommends a mix of pinto or Colorado beans and kidney beans, because the habichuelas we buy in the Dominican Republic don’t really correspond to the kidney beans sold here.
1 cup cilantro or cilantrico, chopped
Cilantro is coriander, and cilantrico is the Dominican name for the fine fern-like growth of a cilantro plant just before it blossoms.

For your sofrito:
1 large onion, chopped
3 cloves of garlic, chopped
1/4 cup olive oil or canola oil
1 teaspoon crushed cumin seeds
1 teaspoon crushed coriander seeds
8 to 10 Roma tomatoes, chopped
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 teaspoons vinegar
1 or 2 red bell peppers, chopped
black pepper, to taste

Wash the beans and soak them overnight in enough water to cover. Next morning, discard the soak water, and refill to cover by at least 1 inch. Bring the beans to a boil, and remove any scum that comes to the top. Add sofrito (you already know how to make this, see above) and simmer until the beans are almost tender, about 40 minutes (depending on the freshness of the beans).

Near the end of the cooking period, add salt and chopped cilantro or cilantrico.

Of course, habichuelas are served with rice. Tune in to the next entry to learn how Tía Lola makes rice the Dominican way.

Meanwhile, enjoy these habichuelas, and as you do, just think: around the world people are also cooking and eating beans.

© 2010 by Julia Alvarez

Julia Alvarez’ new book How Tía Lola Learned to Teach is available for purchase at Powells Books andI found several copies of her husband Bill’s out of print book at Abebooks.

Ms. Alvarez’ blog tour continues and her schedule is as follows:

10/20 http://randomactsofreading.wordpress.com/

10/21 http://teenreads.com

10/22 http://www.spanglishbaby.com

Doña Lupe’s Birthday – 100 Posts

Grandma Lupe & Papa Chava

Grandma Lupe & Papa Chava


Today would have been my gentle grandmother’s birthday. Maria Guadalupe Gonzales was born on October 16th, 1915 somewhere along the way from Abasolo, Guanajuato to where the family ended up settling in Piru, California. The first record on her on any legal document was a census record from 1920 in Piru, California and she was five years old.

I am trying to imagine my grandmother at five. What was she like? Did she run and play amongst the orange orchards on the rancho where they lived the life of many a Mexican picking fruit and working in the fields? It is hard for me to imagine that child that she must have been. In my memories she was always super knowledgeable, very religious and proper and always very loving.

My grandmother knew just about everything there was to know about herbs. She could tell you the story about every plant, flower and herb in her garden. She loved plants that had religious connotations and so those grew all over and they made her incredibly happy. There were two large pots of maiden hair fern (el cabello de la virgen or the hair of the Virgin Mary) on the front porch near the door. The soft, elegant fronds of fern with their delicate black stems would whisper their blessing against your legs as you walked in the front door. In her hanging wire baskets overflowing with moss, you’d find Job’s tears, Bleeding Hearts, Rosary plant, and others. Passionfruit vine grew along the fence and once she took a flower from it and told me the whole story of the Passion of Christ. Each bit of the flower told another part of the story and it fascinated the child I was. She influenced me and influences me still in so many ways. She and my grandfather were great storytellers and never were too busy not to be able to stop and tell me a story about something.

My happiest times as a child were times spent sitting in her kitchen or in the patio out back where we’d sit and embroider while she told me about living in Piru, or about flowers and plants. We’d talk about Julia Child’s cooking show or my stitches. She was so proud of my stitches, which were tiny and tight. I still embroider on occasion, especially if I am making a new traje de gala (regalia) for my Aztec dance. Every time the needle sinks into the manta (canvas) to make a stitch, I think of her and feel she’s watching over me.

When you stepped into my grandma Lupe’s house, the first thing you noticed was the little light switch covers she had. They were unusual in that they had small little fonts for holy water in them and usually a prayer etched into it. You’d come in, dip your fingers into the holy water and make the sign of the cross, blessing yourself as you entered. I miss that. I’m not religious at all, at all but something about the ritual of blessing myself entering and leaving was comforting. I never went anywhere without the blessing of my grandparents, “Que dios te bendiga, hija.” Not having it these days leaves a certain sense of emptiness when I walk out a door, but some days I can almost hear their voices, especially hers and I smile and walk outside knowing I’m loved and cared for, even though she’s been gone over 20 years.

My grandmother died of complications from a stroke in 1984, just two weeks after my youngest son, Robert Salvador was born. I’d had a bad case of pneumonia after Bobby was born and was hospitalized. I missed her funeral and wasn’t able to make the trip home to Los Angeles until two weeks later. I’ll never, ever get over that, missing my chance to say goodbye or even being able to be with her before she did. In those years, I lived about 400 miles away from home and rarely made the trip back home being too busy raising my young family. I would have loved to have live near my grandma and let my children have her around. As it was, my oldest Albert, did make it into her loving arms and she sang to him this song:

SEÑORA SANTA ANA

-Señora Santa Ana,
¿por qué llora el niño?
-Por una manzana
que se le ha perdido.

-No llore por una,
yo le daré dos;
que vayan por ellas
a San Juan de Dios.

No llore por dos,
yo le daré tres;
que vayan por ellas
hasta San Andrés.

No llore por tres,
yo le daré cuatro;
que vayan por ellas
hasta Guanajuato.

No llore por cuatro,
yo le daré cinco;
que vayan por ellas
hasta San Francisco.

No llore por cinco,
yo le daré seis;
que vayan por ellas
hasta la Merced.

No llore por seis,
yo le daré siete;
que vayan por ellas
hasta San Vicente.

No llore por siete,
yo le daré ocho;
que vayan por ellas
hasta San Antonio.

No llore por ocho,
yo le daré nueve;
que vayan por ellas
hasta Santa Irene.

Si llora por nueve,
yo le daré diez;
que vayan por ellas
hasta Santa Inés.

To listen to a part of the song, click here.

It’s about a woman with a crying child and the orchard keeper asks why the child is crying. She answers that the boy is crying for an apple that he lost and the orchard keeper replies, “Let’s go to the orchard and cut two, one for the boy and one for God. The song goes on to talk about the different places in Mexico and mentions my grandmother’s family home state of Guanajuato, so she must have learned it from her mother. I’ll never forget her singing to him and how she rocked him, holding him close to her chest. It is one of the most beautiful memories of my Grandma that I have, that of her holding my firstborn son.

I have so many memories of my Grandma, all wonderful and far too many for one post. In my culture, we have a belief that our ancestors never leave us, they just move over to el otro lado, the other side. As an Aztec dancer, I believe that she is just on the other side, never forgotten, always remembered and honored, always honored. Happy birthday Grandma, te quiero mucho.

Oh this is my 100th post on Doña Lupe’s and so cool that it landed on her birthday!

Blog Action Day 2010: Water

Blog Action Day 2010: Water from Blog Action Day on Vimeo.

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