main dishes

Cinco de Mayo with the real pueblo flavor!

Celebrate the 150th Anniversary of the Battle of Puebla with a Supremo touch

This cinco de mayo is not any May 5, this year we are celebrating the 150th anniversary of the Battle of Puebla and we proudly celebrate Mexican heritage!

V&V Supremo presents you with a number of dishes from traditional Mexican cuisine, including tasty chili capons, which originate from Puebla and we’re happy to post them here with their permission.

To download the recipes in English PLEASE CLICK HERE: https://rcpt.yousendit.com/1488145933/88db9e664c6d24929fa3fca84a49c8b3

 

Guest Post – Shannon Muir from AmoXcalli Cooks Recipes out of Weeknights With Giada

My name’s Shannon Muir, and you can find me partnering with Gina Ruiz over on the book review site AmoXcalli; Gina of course also runs Dona Lupe’s Kitchen.  Recently one of the books I managed to get for review was Weeknights With Giada by cooking show host Giada De Laurentiis. Gina knew that I planned to try several recipes before writing my review, though AmoXcalli focuses more on readability and usability of a book versus the details of it – especially since that site primarily reviews fiction, but is open to any good books. In talking with Gina, it seemed like a good fit to document the details of the various recipes I tried and my thoughts about them specifically here at Dona Lupe’s Kitchen as  a guest blog.

WEEKNIGHTS WITH GIADA

Author: Giada De Laurentiis

Publisher: Random House

ISBN-10:  030745102X

ISBN-13: 978-0307451026

ASIN: B0070O8CKY

Bear in mind that I am a very novice cook compared to Gina’s wealth of experience and her great ability to cook by instinct – I had the opportunity to see this firsthand when she cooked for me while I had to be off my feet. I’ve told her I could use some cooking lessons from her.

So here’s my insight about the three dishes I personally tried from Weeknights with Giada:

1) CREPES WITH PEANUT BUTTER AND JAM

It’s actually of Giada’s “Breakfast for Dinner” portion of the book but due to my time constraints to try recipes I really did have this one for a breakfast meal. I’d never made crepes before, and her method of getting the batter ready really proved stress free and simple without a lot of utensils. The crepe fillings are peanut butter, fresh blueberries, and strawberry or raspberry jam. For some reason I could only find raspberry preserves, and decided to go with a reduced sugar version at that. Overall I don’t think that mattered much, because these tasted great though I couldn’t really eat more than four at a sitting… two is really what’s recommended but I had so many. This was my first time making crepes and I found it even more challenging than pancakes because of the thin nature of a crepe; out of the eight I tried to make, only seven came out solid, as the first one better resembled scrambled eggs and the second split in half. Given the insides I figured these would get gooey if I cut them and dusted any sugar before I took a picture, so I took a picture of the final results with the filled crepes still whole. I really enjoyed making these and would do it again.

 

Peanut Butter and Jam Crepes

These are my Peanut Butter and Jam (well Preserves in my case) Crepes before cutting them in half horizontally as recommended. I still need practice on rolling crepes.

 

 

2) SPICED PORK CHOPS WITH SWEET AND SOUR GLAZE

I’ll immediately fess up to a small alteration here. Giada recommends boneless pork chops, but I forgot to write boneless down and when I got to the market, the center cut was on sale – so this recipe was actually done with center cut. It didn’t affect the flavor, but it did mean cooking two sets of chops at a time and then starting the sauce when the second set of chops cooked. My fiance’ was over visiting for the day and we actually cooked these together. The rub for the chops finds its kick in crushed red pepper which I usually stay away from and the flavor did stay with me even after I finished eating the chop.  Initially the stove was a bit hot and we slightly burned the first two chops, but the second two turned out far better. The glaze that goes with these proved the highlight of the meal with the balsamic honey taste that dominates until that red pepper takes over. Also with the other two pork chops, it made a great marinade overnight for me to have tender leftovers for lunch the next day. Despite the red pepper, I would eat these again for sure.

Spiced Pork Chop

Here is a spiced pork chop with sweet and sour glaze... done with a center cut chop.

 

 

3) CRISPY CHICKEN WITH ROSEMARY-LEMON SALT

Essentially, these are fancy chicken nuggets (made by cutting chicken tenders in pieces) coated in cornmeal and herbs and then dipped in marinara sauce. I really liked them plain and thought they had good flavor just that way. Honestly, I found it hard to understand what the flavored salt brought to the dish because lemon zest and rosemary already were in it as part of the chicken coating. Also, personally, I’m trying to cut back on sodium so I was glad the ones I tried without it tasted good too. Probably eat my leftovers tomorrow without the salt. I’d definitely make the coated tenders again though.

Crispy Chicken with Rosemary-Lemon Salt and Marinara

Crispy chicken pieces dusted with rosemary-lemon salt surrounding marinara sauce for dip

 

See my review at AmoXcalli for my overall thoughts of the cookbook… and perhaps I’ll be back again with more behind the scenes from other cookbooks or getting some cooking lessons from Gina!

Lasagna Margherita

Layering stuff on my lasagna

Fusion.  Can I call it that?

I’m making a bastardization of a Pizza Margherita kind of, sort of only with lasagna.  Does that qualify as fusion?  Fusion sounds hip, cool and so not like what my Aunt Lupita would call “cochinadas” which basically means a mess or pig slop, I’m not sure what.  It’s what we always called our little cooking experiments.

I bought some beautiful organic basil the other day and wanted to make pesto, but didn’t have any pinenuts or any other kind of nuts, so I stuck it in the fridge.  Yesterday, I was out at Walmart doing some shopping for a science project and I found some ridiculously priced Ricotta which always gets me thinking of lasagna.  An idea for something started forming in my head.  I adore Pizza Margherita or Margarita (however you want to spell it).  It’s pizza made with fresh basil, slices of tomato and mozzerella.  Kind of like a Capresi salad which I also love on bread. So why not lasagna?  Béa over at La Tartine Gourmand makes an astoundingly delish (I’ve made it several times) green lasagna so why not something pesto-ish? I bought lasagna noodles.  Wasn’t in the mood to make my own this time since this is an experiment in extreme cochinada-making.

I assembled my ingredients in my head.  I’d chiffonade the basil to really bruise it and get the full flavor, then mince garlic and mix the two together.  I’d add olive oil and sea salt and just let it sit there for a couple of hours marinating itself.  The tomatoes i decided to roast because I wasn’t sure if they would do well in the lasagna if not. I wanted them smokey not juicy if that makes sense.  As I was working this out in my head, I decided to also roast some onions with the tomatoes in the oven.

I didn’t have mozzarella and was going to run out and get some, but found some pepper Jack cheese tucked away.  Why not?  It would cut through all that sweetness with a little spice and bite and I AM Latina.  Hey they sprinkle chili flakes on pizza don’t they?  Total justification.

So I made it, cooking noodles, layering pasta, scooping cheese, delicately adding tomatoes and onions, spreading my basil mixture.  I put it in a casserole dish with a lid on it and stuck it in the oven at 350.  In less than five minutes, the house smelled INSANE.  I literally wanted to bite the air.

You know you want some.

It worked!  The result was rich, creamy goodness with that wonderful blend of tomato and basil that I love in a pizza or caprese salad.  What would I do differently?  Next time I’m making the pasta dough myself and roasting the tomatoes and onions just a bit longer.  Other than that, not a thing.

 

Gina’s Lasagna Margherita

3 cups of basil, chopped in a chiffonade

4-5 cloves of garlic, finely minced

1/4 olive oil

1 large white onion, cut into rings

4-6 large Roma tomatoes, sliced

sea salt to taste

Ricotta cheese

Parmesan cheese (a handful sprinkled on each layer)

Monterey Jack, pepper Jack or Mozzarella cheese (depends on how much cheese you want)

Lasagna noodles

Fresh basil leaves for garnish

 

Chiffonade the basil and mince the garlic.  Mix together with about a teaspoon of sea salt and the olive oil.  Let stand for about 20 minutes.  Set aside.

Slice the onions and tomatoes.  Sprinkle with oilve oil and roast in a hot oven (350 degrees) for about 20 minutes or until nicely browned and caramelized.  Let cool and set aside.

Cook the lasagna noodles according to instructions on box or recipe. Drain.

Place a layer of noodles in the bottom of a baking dish.  Spread with basil mixture.

Sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese,

Layer on onions and tomatoes evenly.

Scoop on Ricotta cheese.  Add Jack or Mozzarella.

Drizzle a little of the olive oil from the basil onto the cheese and add a little more basil.

Repeat till you get to the top.

On the top layer, cover with either the Jack or Mozarella cheese as well as a few onions and tomatoes.

Cover and bake for 30-45 minutes until cheese is bubbly and melted.

Garnish with fresh basil leaves and serve.

This goes great with a chilled Prosecco.

 

Se acabo.

 

In Praise of Menudo

What is it about menudo?

If you’re a Chicano or Mexican, chances are you think its the cure-all for la cruda (hangover).  I’ve read that this is a folktale with no substantiated proof of its validity as a cure for the common hangover.  Still, millions of Mexicans would beg to differ and Juanita’s still sells cans and cans of the stuff.

I can see why it would work.  Dehydration is key in a hangover.  Your body is dried out from the alcohol and it makes your head pound and you’re feeling nauseous and ill.  Ok, so bring in the menudo which is essentially, a soup aka water. The water content alone would help you to start feeling better as did that shower you probably took before leaving the house in search of menudo.

But what about the rest?

There’s chili in menudo – not just the chili you cook into it, but also the red pepper flakes you shake liberally onto it and the salsa you scoop into it from the bowl on the table.  Vitamin C is in chili.  That’s gotta help.  What about the onions and garlic that went into it?  Or the freshly chopped raw onion you put on top?  The oregano which is high in antioxidants.  Hippocrates used it as an antiseptic and Mexican abuelas have used it for upset stomachs.  What about that lemon or lime you’re squeezing all over your bowl? More Vitamin C and more liquid.  No wonder you feel better.

Then there’s the fat.  That cow’s stomach that is so chewy, soft and delicious is coating your insides and settling your tummy.  So while I’m no scientist, I say menudo works.  If you don’t have a pot of menudo at home, the simple act of going out for it gives you exercise and gets your blood pumping, chasing that hangover away.

Me, I just love it for its complexity of tastes and textures.  That bitterness of the oregano, sharp bite of the raw onion, the rolled up corn tortilla I dip into it with its taste of char, the bite of the nixtamal or hominy, the chewiness of the panza, the slow burn of the chili and the citrusy freshness of the lemon all combine to make me a very happy girl.  My Uncle Adam would spend every New Year’s Eve perfecting his menudo and I was always a happy taste tester.

What Latino kid doesn’t like menudo?  We grow up picking out the stomach and asking our mothers and grandmothers to only put in the corn; nixtamal soaked over night until it blossoms then cooked into the menudo.  Little by little, the panza or stomach makes its way down our throats and we start putting more of it into our bowl, delighting in the chewiness mixed with the melty soft parts.  As kids, we might sneer and get grossed out by the pata, a pig’s foot neatly quartered by the carnicero (butcher) but menudo isn’t menudo without the pata.  We grow up demanding a piece of the previously despised pata in our bowls, sticking up proudly in a mountain of nixtamal.

At the table, you see the men sucking the bones clean with gusto.  The women are more dainty about it but all the same, they want that fatty, piggy feet goodness.  Everyone seasons their menudo differently.  Tio Nacho over there likes a LOT of oregano, Tia Fulana likes more onion than most, me; sitting on the end over there has a pile of squeezed lemons on the napkin next to me because  I like it sour.

Menudo, that peasant dish made of castoff cow and pig parts is truly el rey (the king) on Sundays in Latino houses and restaurants.  What’s your favorite part of a bowl of menudo?

*The FDA requires that I disclose that this is NOT a cure.  I am NOT prescribing menudo as a cure for a hangover. I’m just pondering…that’s all.  Menudo is food, not medicine.  Sabes? 

Chicken Flautas with Two Kinds of Salsa

Antojida.

I love that word. An antojo is a craving.  Being antojida means you are seriously jonesing for something yummy.  Today, for no apparent reason I got one of those completely random antojos for some chicken flautas with guacamole, sour cream, Spanish rice, and some salsa.  I was working on something, so I kept pushing off the images floating in my head till finally, I couldn’t stand it anymore.  I put down the laptop, put on my shoes, put up my hair, grabbed my handbag and ran out the door.  Grocery list?  Pfft.  I knew exactly what I wanted.

  • Chicken
  • Tortillas
  • Chipotles en escabeche
  • chiles gueritos
  • tomatoes
  • avocados
  • fresh thyme
  • sour cream

I ran into the market (I do everything fast) and grabbed one of those little hand baskets.  I was in and out of the market in ten minutes and home in another five.  I did notice it was a gorgeous day in Southern California, but I didn’t linger to enjoy it.  I was on a flauta mission.  I couldn’t make up my mind which salsa I wanted more, so I made them both.

 

For the flautas:

Boil the chicken with sprigs of fresh thyme, two cloves of garlic, a quarter of an onion and some sea salt to taste.  Today, I used breast filets rather than a whole chicken because I was in a hurry.

Once the chicken is cooked, pull out the pieces and let cool.  Once cool, shred into strips.  Reserve the cooking liquid/broth.

Heat corn tortillas right over the flame or on a comal (griddle).  They won’t roll if they are cold.

Fill a heavy skillet half way with cooking oil and heat on medium.

Add some of the shredded chicken.  Not too much or your flautas will be unwieldy and too thick.  Think flute-like and elegant.  That’s what flauta means – flute.  Roll the tortilla up tight.  You can use toothpicks to hold them together.  I don’t. I use tongs and put them directly into the hot oil, one at a time.

Let the flautas brown completely on both sides until the tortilla is golden brown and crip.

Drain on a plate with paper towels to absorb the oil.

Serve with salsa, guacamole, sour cream and rice.

 

They look mild, but they are HOT!

For the salsa de chile guerito:

4 chile gueritos (yellow chiles)

2 cloves of garlic

4 Roma tomatoes

1/4 of an onion

salt to taste

cilantro

Boil the chiles, onion, garlic and tomatoes in a heavy sauce pan until very soft.  Keep in mind that yellow chiles are HOT.  They look mild, but don’t let that pale yellow color fool you.  If you don’t like heat, dial it back and use two chiles instead of the four I use.

Strain and cool, reserving the water.

Peel the tomatoes and chiles.

In a molcajete (blenders make it foamy and the texture is all wrong so if you don’t have a molcajete, try a potato ricer), crush the chiles, onions, tomatoes, and garlic until you have a smooth yet rather chunky mixtures.  Add in some of the water that the chiles cooked in until you get the consistency you want.

Add salt to taste (alternatively use Knorr Pollo) and cilantro leaves.

Salsa de chile guerito

 

For the salsa de chipotle con lima (Chipotle salsa with lime):

1 can of chipotles in escabeche

cilantro

chicken broth

salt to taste

two cooked chile gueritos

two cooked Roma tomatoes

2 cloves of garlic, minced

juice of fresh limes (about 1/8 cup)

Peel the cooked tomatoes and chiles and crush in a molcajete or using a potato ricer.  Pour into a bowl, adding the minced garlic.  In the molcajete, crush the canned chipotles until you have a thick paste.  Add that into the bowl with the tomatoes and chiles, using some chicken broth to thin it out a little.  Add salt to taste and some fresh cilantro (about a handful). Add the lime juice and stir to mix well.

Hot, smoky, tangy and oh so yum!

For the guacamole:

This is super simple guacamole.  The purist kind.  All you do is mash avocados and put them into a bowl.  You don’t want any other flavorings, not even salt.  The salsas you serve and the chicken itself will provide lots of flavor so leave the avocado pure.  That’s it!

Time to dig in!

Ewww Cactus!

Nopales con tortas de camaron

Ewwwwwwww cactus!

Is that what you are thinking?  It’s a reaction I get often when I speak longingly of cactus in salads, or in scrambled eggs, or in red mole sauce with pork or, one of my favorites; nopales con tortas de camaron.  Go ahead and think ewww, that leaves more delicious nopales (cactus) for me.

Growing up, nopales were an almost daily part of my meals as were beans and rice.  My grandfather, Papa was very proud of his towering nopale plants that stood in his back garden against the garage wall.  The sun hit strong there and the nopales grew and grew.  I loved going out back with him, both of us armed with pinsas (tongs), a long knife and a plastic bag.  Papa showed me how to slice carefully at an angle so a new cactus paddle would grow in place of the one I cut.  I’d pinch one end with the tongs and carefully slice then drop it gingerly into my bag.  Often, he’d let one or two fall to the floor and when I looked up at him, he’d say in that raspy voice of his “Para que crescen mas.”  So that more could grow.  That’s all it took, you’d drop a cactus paddle into the dry earth and before you knew it, a cactus plant was born and competing with its brothers for the sun against the pale, wooden garage wall.

Once we had our ration of nopales we’d take them to my grandma and then more fun would start.  She’d carefully lay out cut open paper bags on the old patio table outside and bring out her sharpest knives.  Papa would look at them critically, occasionally taking out his sharpening stone and working on them till they met his high standards.  Grandma would smile that special smile she kept just for him when he handed her the newly sharpened knife and get to work.  She’d hand me a small knife and a cactus paddle with the biggest thorns to remove (bigger is easier, those small ones will get you), so that I could learn the fine art of removing thorns from cactus.  It IS an art form.  Have you ever seen a Latina woman remove thorns from cactus?  It’s fast, intense and they never get stuck.  My grandmother could have a pile of those cleaned in no time, while I struggled with my one paddle.  Eventually, I learned and got good at it but nowhere near my grandmother’s artistry.

Once they were stripped of thorns, my grandmother washed the nopales and put them into a large pan of water with a whole quartered onion and brought them to a rolling boil till they were just tender and had changed color.  She’d let them cool, then drain and rinse with cold water.  For days afterwards we’d have them scrambled into eggs for breakfast, in salad if it were summertime and sometimes she’d make her delicious red chile sauce and serve them with crispy bits of pork.

Now, I cheat.  I buy them peeled and diced whenever I can, but on those rare days that I have time and am missing my grandmother, I take out my sharpest knife, lay out some paper bags and get to work.

Here’s my recipe for Nopales con Tortas de Camaron (Cactus with Shrimp Cakes)

About 2 cups of diced nopales, cooked

1 oz. Chile California

1 bay leaf

2 tbsp. Knorr Pollo

Water or chicken broth

3 tbsps. Flour (you can add more or less depending on how thick you like it)

1 oz. Shrimp powder

2 egg whites

2 egg yolks

Cooking oil

Drain the cooked nopales and set aside.

In a heavy frying pan or sauce pan, brown the flour, whisking to make sure it doesn’t burn.  Add the bay leaf and chile California when the flour is nicely browned.  Keep whisking adding in hot water or chicken broth till you have a nice gravy-like consistency.  Add Knorr pollo to taste and let simmer, whisking occasionally for about ten minutes.  If it gets too thick, add a little more broth or water.

Turn off the heat and set aside, covered.

In a large frying pan, add oil about half way up and heat on medium flame.

In a mixing bowl whisk two egg whites until stiff.  Think meringue.  When stiff peaks form, slowly whisk in the egg yolks one at a time.  Shake in the shrimp power while still whisking little by little. If you do it all at once, your batter will go flat.

With a spoon, scoop up tablespoon sized dollops of the batter and carefully slide into the hot oil.  They will puff up quickly so only do a few at a time.  Taking a spatula or slotted spoon, turn them over once and let brown.  Scoop out and drain on paper towels or brown paper bags.  They will flatten a bit so don’t freak if they do.

Once they are all done, stir the nopales into the chile sauce and heat for about 8 minutes.  One by one add the shrimp tortas into the nopale mixture then serve.  If you have a greedy son named Phillip, watch those tortas because they WILL disappear off the paper where they are draining long before you can get them into the chile.  This is where a good smack on the hand or a chancletaso comes in handy, although at twenty-nine he’d still rather get his hand smacked than miss an opportunity to filch tortas from the plate.

Serve with rice, beans and freshly made tortillas.

Chicken Tostadas

It’s been crazy hot here in L.A., but that’s usual for July. My meals have been light, cold, crunchy and not cooked. Things like tostadas de atun, sandwiches, fruit or even ice cream have made their way onto my table. I had the ice cream for breakfast one particularly hot day. Hey, there’s milk in it! Don’t judge me.

Today, finally the heat broke and I wanted real food. Something that wasn’t too much trouble but also satisfying. I was craving Mexican food. Wandering round the kitchen I spotted a half of a package of *pre-made tostada shells left over from the ceviche the other day and my mouth watered thinking about the tostadas my grandmother would make. I found already cooked beans, boiled some boneless, skinless chicken with some herbs, onion and garlic then shredded it and I had the makings for tostadas.

Before too long, I served up plates of tostadas to everyone and the happy crunches made me smile. Not my grandmother’s tostadas, because we were out of a thing or two, but delicious all the same.

Chicken and Bean Tostadas

Shredded chicken
Grated cheese
Shredded lettuce
Chopped chiles gueritos
Diced tomatoes
Diced onions
Re-fried beans (por favor, not out of a can)
Tostada shells
Tapatio sauce or other hot sauce

Spread the beans over the tostada shell and sprinkle with cheese. Top with chicken then start piling on the rest. I usually put tons of toppings in bowls so that everyone can pick out what they like and make them Lucha Libre style. We like to put cheese on the hot beans so it melts and then top them off with more cheese. You can add any other ingredients you like, e.g., avocado slices, sour cream, cilantro, different types of chiles, salsa, etc. Go wild!

*If it hadn’t been July in L.A. After a long, hot week I would have fried the tostada shells myself but thank God I live in a neighborhood that has great tortillas and tostada shells that taste homemade because the market has a tortilleria in it.

Gorditas

I haven’t made gorditas in years and I’m not quite sure why.  I always loved them as a kid and their open faced counterpart, the sope or sopito.  Thick corn tortillas cooked on a griddle, then sliced open, deep fried and stuffed full of meat, beans, lettuce, tomatoes, salsa and cheese was heaven on a plate.  Hearty and delicious fare that filled me up and made me sleepy afterwards.  I love all the textures and flavors of them, the crispy thickness of the dense corn tortilla, the chewiness of meat, the soft beans and the freshness of the cold vegetables.  My mouth is watering writing this and I’ve just finished one!  And yes, I am laughing at myself…

Gorditas can be filled with just about anything.  Beans, meat, chicharrones in green chile – the possibilities and variations are endless.  Today I am making them stuffed with ground pork, refried beans with cheese and the chopped tomato, onion and cilantro mix I love so much.  I made salsa de molcajete too and I know my son Phillip will add a dollop of crema and sprinkle his with a little queso cotija like he always does.  Any way you have them, they are so good.  Decadent good.
Some of that decadence comes from LARD.  Yes, that’s right I said LARD.  Look, you can add vegetable shortening or olive oil or whatever you like to try and make a healthier alternative and it will work, even be good but there is no substitute for the piggy taste of lard.  You don’t make gorditas every day, heck I haven’t made them in years so my philosophy is this: if you’re gonna do it – do it up right.  Use the lard!  It’s just a bit and sure, it will clog  your arteries a bit but add a bit more chile to burn it out.  Live a little and then put away the recipe for a year or two.

My grandmother made gorditas like no one else could.  Her swift hands made fast work of forming them while some of us used a tortilla press to get them perfectly round and of equal thickness.  Her hands worked gracefully, almost in musical rhythm and she never missed a beat.  Her gorditas were perfectly round, all uniform in size and all of the same thickness.  I still can’t do that, though I get the taste just right.  Watching her was like watching a magician and I would sit on my little red chair with my elbows on the table, chin in hands just admiring and daydreaming of the day I’d be standing at that stove making perfect bits of delicious roundness.

Well, I never could get them as perfect as hers anymore than I can get all the peel off an orange in one long curl like she did but they sure taste like hers and eating them again makes me all the more determined to get it right next time without using a tortilla press.  Some things never change though and when I see my grandchildren watching me at the stove, I know they are daydreaming of being the one at the stove making magic.

Gorditas

For the masa:
2 cups Maseca (corn flour)
1/4 cup white flour
2 tsps baking powder
1/3 tsp of salt
1 1/2 cup of warm water
1/4 cup of lard (or vegetable shortening)

Mix the maseca, the flour, salt and baking powder in a bowl.  Add the lard or shortening and the warm water.  Mix until the dough is smooth and can be formed into a ball.  Divide into balls and keep covered with a damp cloth.

Either using a tortilla press or shaping with your hands, make the gorditas in about a 4 inch diameter about 1/4 inch thick.

Heat the gorditas on a hot griddle or comal until cooked on each side.

Slice each cooked gordita almost to the end but keeping it together, forming a kind of pocket.  Some people don’t make the cut until it’s fried, but I like the insides crispy too.

Deep fry the gorditas in oil  until golden brown and drain on paper towels.

Stuff the pockets with any filling you like.  Beans, shredded beef, carnitas, chicharonnes in green salsa,  queso fresco, scrambled eggs with nopales, etc.

Project Food Blog Challenge #2: Two Irish Classics

Two Irish Classics

My traditions and culture are solidly Mexican.  I grew up in a Mexican house with Mexican family.  We spoke in Spanish, English and Spanglish.  I still have fond memories of my grandfather saying, “Andale, walkale” which was a funny way of saying hurry up and walk whenever we were going somewhere.  The sounds of boleros and oldies were the music of my growing up and the smells in the kitchen were spicy and sweet.  There is another side of me though – the Irish side.  I am half Irish.  The Mexican is so steeped in me that I rarely give it a thought unless I am cursing my freckles or lighter than the average Mexican skin as it blisters in the hot Los Angeles sun.  I remember I am half Irish when I think of my red-headed, freckled and blue eyed father but I certainly never remember it when I am cooking.

Irish food?  Um..yeah.  My Latina palate requires spices sharp and pungent, my nose needs the scents of chocolate, cinnamon, chiles roasting on a comal, a kitchen redolent with color, sensation, aroma.  Irish food?  Bland, boring, colorless…or so I thought.

When I read this challenge, to create a dish from another culture out of my comfort zone the first thought was oooh Indian!  That thought quickly went out the window as I mentally flipped through countries.  Problem was the most exotic was NOT out of my comfort zone.  There was color, spice, and adventure – all the things I most equate with the food I am most comfortable cooking.  Then it hit me.  Why not use this challenge not only as a chance to push the envelope and challenge myself but also to learn about myself, that other side of the family tree?  Explore my buried roots through the medium of food?

Once decided it felt right.  All I had to do was choose the food.  Beef and Guiness pie?  No. Stew?  Overdone.  Crusty roast lamb (Uaineoil faoi chrusta)?  Colcannon?  Brambrak? No, no, no.  It was getting late.  I was getting frazzled.  Then it hit me just as the idea to cook Irish did.  You want a challenge, girl?  Go simple, uber simple and traditional.  After all, this blog is about traditions, just not Irish ones.  Yet.

Brotchan Foltchep (Leek and Oatmeal Soup) is a creamy, delicious surprise

I settled on an ancient recipe for Brotchan Foltchep (Leek and Oatmeal Soup) with Brown Bread also known as cake.  It was a challenge in many ways.  First of all oatmeal for soup?  Are you kidding me?  That’s for breakfast!  No meat in it?   And, and, and OATMEAL?  Wthout raisins and cinnamon and cream?  Well. there is cream, but it’s not the same.  Then there was the bread.  Oh.  My.  God.  Seriously?  Two tablespoons of butter in about 6 cups of flour?  No eggs.  Stone ground wheat flour.  I was dubious and kept thinking to myself, “this is going to be awful dry.”  I was so tempted to sneak in yeast, sugar, more butter, eggs anything to make that pile of sticky dough a little more like bread.  I swear I slapped my own hand at least three times to keep from trying to “fix it.”  I ended up needing a full cup more buttermilk than the original recipe asked for and it was still very dry.  Another 1/4 cup or so got it feeling right about how the recipe said it should feel.

To get in the spirit of things, I turned on some music.  Believe it or not, I’m a big fan of The Saw Doctors and Juliet Turner.  Turner’s Belfast Central is one of my favorites.  She’s Northern Irish, not where my family is from but her voice is lovely and it helped soothe me.  The Saw Doctors got me dancing and not worrying so much about the brick I was sure my bread would turn out to be.  Being used to kneading dough, it was hard for me to do as little as possible with the Irish bread.  The trick with that is to keep from letting the glutens form so you want to knead as little as possible or it will be tough according to my research.

I had been lucky enough to have had some left over vegetable stock I’d made the other day in the fridge so I didn’t have to make that and it saved me some time which was a relief since I’d left it to the last minute.  As I got into making the soup, it started to make sense to me.  The oatmeal was almost like a roux as it was cooked in butter almost masquerading as flour.  The end result was a hearty, healthy and surprisingly tasty soup with a bit of bright color.  It wasn’t a bit bland!  The brown bread, which was rustic yet light and spread thickly with good Irish butter was a perfect accompaniment.

Leeks simmering in oatmeal broth

I think I like this Irish side and intend to explore it further.  I still want to make that carrot pudding, that Apple and Bramble cake with Bushmills custard and the crusty roast lamb.  I may find more surprises along my way and I think I will learn more about myself, that other I hardly know as I wend my rambling way through Southern Ireland via the route of food.

Brown bread with Irish butter

Brotchan Foltchep (Leek and Oatmeal Soup)  – recipe adapted from http://www.irishcultureandcustoms.com/2kitch/rSoups.html

3 Leeks
1//4 cup of butter
1 cup of Irish oatmeal
2 1/2 cups of vegetable stock
Salt and pepper to taste
Pinch of mace
Chopped parsley
2 tablespoons heavy cream

Wash the leeks thoroughly and chop into chunks. (Save one chunk and slice into rings as a garnish, if liked: put these aside until the soup is done.)
Melt the butter gently in a saucepan, not allowing it to brown. Add the oatmeal and fry it in the butter, stirring until golden brown. Still stirring, pour in the stock and milk.
Add the chopped leeks, salt, pepper and mace. Bring to a boil; then lower heat and simmer for about 30 minutes, until the broth is thick. Remove from heat, allow to cool slightly, and then either liquidize the soup in a blender or with a “stick mixer”, or push it through a sieve.
Reheat gently without allowing it to boil again. Stir in parsley: serve and garnish with a swirl of cream and / or the previously sliced bits of leek (or stir the cream in when the parsley is added).

Brown Bread recipe adapted from Irish Abroad

4 cups of stone ground wheat flour
2 cups of white flour
1 1/2 tsp salt
1 1/2 tsp baking soda
3 cups of buttermilk
2 tablespoons of butter
Mix the wheat flour throughly with the white flour. Rub the butter into the flours. Add the salt, and soda.
Make a well in the center and gradually mix in the liquid. Stir with a wooden spoon. You may need less, or more liquid – it depends on the absorbent quality of the flour. the dough should be soft but managable. Knead the dough into a ball in the mixing bowl with your floured hands. Put in on a lightly floured baking sheet and with the palm of your hand flatten out in a circle 1 1/2 inches thick. With a knife dipped in flour, make a cross through the center of the bread so that it will easily break into quarters when it is baked.
Bake at 425 degrees for 25 minutes, reduce the heat to 350 degrees and bake a further 15 minutes. If the crust seems too hard, wrap the baked bread in a damp tea cloth. Leave the loaf standing upright until it is cool.

Thanks to everyone who voted for me in Challenge #1.  I’m honored and appreciate it so much.  Voting for Challenge #2 opens on Monday.

Squash Flower Pudding (budin de flor de calabaza)

I was lucky enough to get into the market early this morning just as the produce guy was putting out a large box of the beautiful orange squash blossoms I’d made quesdillas with the other day. As he opened the box, I could already taste the budin. I bought half the box and gently carried them home and put them in water, covered the delicate blossoms so they wouldn’t wilt and set about assembling my ingredients.

A budin is a pudding, but not that chalky chocolate pudding in cup stuff that I see my grandkids eat on occasion. A Mexican pudding is often savory, always delicious and usually contains ingredients maybe unfamiliar to the American kitchen. This is REAL Mexican food. We are so much more than tacos… oh well that view is rapidly changing so I won’t start ranting mid-post.

Squash flowers need to be used the same day they are bought. They are incredibly delicate and tend to wilt almost immediately. In the grocery store plastic bags from store to home, they can get slightly bruised so they usually sit very carefully on my lap on the way home. It’s important to have all your ingredients together if you’re working with them so that they don’t have time to wilt on you.

Delicate squash flower blossoms

Making the budin is easy, almost effortless to me. It’s a great recipe to listen to some boleros while cooking and just zen out. The brilliant orange of the blossoms mingled with translucent strips of sweet onion give the dish texture but it is oh so light. Like eating a very savory, silky cloud. Que rico! Writing about it makes me want to make another one because of course there’s no more. Squash flower season is very short. A couple of weeks in the spring and another couple at the end of summer signaling the start of autumn. They don’t preserve well that I know of so squash flower budins aren’t made very often and they get gobbled up so fast it’s ridiculous. Make sure to hide yourself an extra slice – it will go fast.

Budin de flor de calabaza/Squash Flower Pudding

6 cups of squash flower blossoms, cleaned and chopped
1 cup of rice flour
1 can of evaporated milk
2 cups of water
1 golden onion, halved then thinly sliced
1/4 cup of butter
4 eggs, beaten
Salt to taste
1 tsp Knorr Suiza
1 1/2 cups of grated Monterey Jack cheese (Note: sometimes I use Comte or Manchego)

Mix the rice flour with the evaporated milk and water in a mixing bowl until smooth, then pour into a heavy pot and heat on low flame stirring constantly until it thickens. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.

In a skillet, fry the onion slices in butter until translucent then add in the chopped flowers. Saute about two minutes and add salt and Knorr Suiza. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.

Mix the flowers and onions into the rice flour mixture until well blended. Mix in the eggs and incorporate well.

Pour into a greased non-metal baking dish and bake at 350 degrees for about 45 minutes or until the budin has risen and a knife pulls out clean.

The budin will sink a little as it cools so don’t worry. That’s normal.

Serve with a little creama Mexicana and a salad. Buen provecho!

Page 1 of 3123