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Pan de Muertos at Lincoln Park Ceremony

The people on my altar for day of the dead are all very special. They were loved, are loved still and are missed profoundly. With each one of them there is a recipe or dish I make on November 2nd in honor of their memory. In my home, we also read poetry, play music and tell stories about them so their memory stays alive.

For my grandmother Lupe, there are always oranges. She grew up in Piru, California around lots of orange orchards. They were her favorite fruit and I always remember how she trimmed long, unbroken curls of orange which fell into her lap. She used those later to make her rose petal sachets. I put oranges all around the altar and there is always a bowl full of chocolate-orange sticks, her favorite candy. Sometimes I make homemade orangette.

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Building an altar

For my Papa Chava, there is chicharonnes cooked in green chile sauce and a huge plate of bunuelos with syrup I make from scratch. I always make sure to char a few flour tortillas and set them on the altar. He loved them slightly burnt, which we could never figure out.

For David, dear friend and mentor, I make my German chocolate cake that he loved so much. I play the CD that was given out at his memorial back in 2005, so he has the music he loved.

There are other little things on the altar, pictures, recuerdos, a ribbon, a feather from a fallen dancer’s headpiece, a little drum, a baby sock from my little half-niece Desiree who died so young. There are mangoes, cempaxochitl flowers (marigolds), pineapples, tunas (prickly pear) and squash. There are little sugar skulls and skeletons, a statue of the Virgen de Guadalupe, a picture of Emiliano Zapata and old family photos of relatives no longer here. It takes about four hours to put our altar together and we usually do it at Parque de Mexico in Lincoln Heights during our Danza Azteca cermony. This year, due to illness it will be a scaled back version here at home. The spirit is the same though and for this special night, we commune with our antepasados (ancestors) in a family party.

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Danzantes

We make pan de muertos and put copal in the copalero and light it so that the sweet smoke perfumes the air. Boleros with singers like Trio Los Panchos play all night long and I sit with my grandchildren and tell them about the people they never met. Jasmine and Aiden know my grandmother and grandfather well and my hope is that they will carry on this tradition and tell their own grandchildren the stories along with stories of their own.

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The Aztec dancers in my dance group believe that we stand on the shoulders of our ancestors, that we stand strong and true and proud on our history, our culture and our family ties. I believe that will everything in me and I believe in fostering that belief and tradition – that culture that is ours in my grandchildren.

amigas Descanso

Happy dia de los muertos everyone.

Isis’ Impromptu Tea Party

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Lavender & Mint Tea Cakes

Isis is here.  Isis Lucia is my son Phillip’s four year old daughter and she lives in San Diego with her mom.  I rarely get to see her but last night Phillip brought her over to spend the weekend so we’re pretty excited.  What I wasn’t prepared for was the LLANTO.  Llanto is Spanish for a whole lotta crying.  Isis can cry at the drop of a hat.  Phillip is great with her, but boy can she cry.

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Don't let this happy face fool you, she can beat Niobe at crying.

This afternoon while we were waiting for Jasmine and Aiden to arrive and hopefully distract Isis from crying she dissolved into tears again.  Phillip was pulling out all the stops to get her to quit but nothing was working.  So Grammy (me), nursing a bad migraine opened my big mouth and said, “Isis want to make cake?”  Instant smile.

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Isis surveys her new domain from lofty heights

I scanned my pantry and couldn’t find what I needed to make cake but I did find one Duncan Hines box of white cake mix left behind by an old roommate.  Bingo.  Isis and I whipped up a boxed cake which I doctored with a little bourbon vanilla and buttermilk.  I rummaged in the fridge and found butter as well as a lemon.  Yay!  Buttercream in the making.  I whipped together butter and confectioners sugar with Isis wide eyed and happy wondering what I was doing.  I explained about buttercream while adding just a bit of buttermilk to make it extra creamy.  I showed her how to zest a lemon and that a little vanilla makes everything taste just a bit better.  She helped me squeeze lemon juice and add it to the buttercream, then tasted it and nodded approvingly. I think Grammy made points today.

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They didn't want tea but grape soda went well

The cake was in the oven and the lemon buttercream in the fridge when she started crying again.  My head throbbed.  Phillip looked desperate.  I IM’d Marissa to please hurry over with the cousins and got the reply back OMW.  The tears were still going and I scanned the yard looking, thinking and saw the little pink and white plastic table.  “Isis want to throw a tea party for your cousins?”  Crying stopped, she looks up and asks, “tea party?”  I nod carefully, trying not to cause ripples in the migraine.  “Si!” she chirps.

So now I have a tea party to pull out of um…somewhere.

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Jasmine and Isis comadreando at the tea party

I take the now done cake out of the oven cut it into petit four type rectangles, top it with a blob of lemon buttercream, decorate with lavender and mint from the garden, set the table quickly, find grape soda and some straws and just before she hits the internal Cry button one more time, Jasmine and Aiden walk in the door with presents for their cousin.  Tea party success!  Everyone enjoyed it and even Ozzy got a slice of cake (well he ate the buttercream right off it, Ozzy is a sucker for butter even when I pollute it with lemon).

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Let him eat cake!

It’s been two hours and still no llanto.  She’s too distracted with cousins, jumping on the bed, the trampoline, running with the dog and Jasmine who is the social director of the cousins.  Thank God.  Fingers crossed, hope it lasts.

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Even the big boys come to our tea parties

Random Pictures from Recipes I Forgot to Post – Oscar Viewing Party

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Rachel and I threw an Oscar Viewing/Rachel B’s Birthday Bash back in February. I never got around to posting the pictures or the recipes. Funny the things you find in your digital camera when you look…

We do theme food to try and match the nominated movies, either by title or just what we imagine the people in the movie would have liked to eat.

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Ratatouille – Ratatouille

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Pepper Jack, Cheddar and Gruyere Quesadillas with a Sour Cream and Radish Dipping Sauce – No Country for Old Men (Hey it was a Southwestern kinda thing)

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Tropical Fruit Marshmallow Salad – Surf’s Up (Penguins like marshmallows don’t they?)

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We thought that Juno needed fancy grilled cheese sandwiches with pickles.

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Recipe adapted from Billy Bob Thornton’s Cheesy Pimento Bites

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I can’t believe I am smashing peas into a mousse.

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The snap pea mousse became Snap Pea Canapes which for some strange reason, we thought Michael Clayton aka George Clooney would love.

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Any excuse to make my famous fried chicken…No Country for Old Men called for it.

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We bought the meat pies but NOT from Mrs. Lovett – Sweeney Todd

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For There Will be Blood, I thought I’d make something red.

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and well, bloody

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but not a bloody Mary because that would be so…obvious and we’d already gone obvious with the meat pies

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and we really didn’t want borscht

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and I really like making a good roux

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So homemade Cream of Tomato Soup it was.

Our guests that arrived in all their finery in the midst of the rain were really appreciative of the hot soup so I think it was a good call.

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We did a few other dishes and eventually I will find them and post.

The Tamalada: Part 9 – Is it a Party or is it Work?

 The Tamalada: Part 9   Is it a Party or is it Work?

Soraya, Rachel and Daisy make it look so easy!

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We even put the kids to work.

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Happy tamale-makers

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Deron had no idea what he was getting into. Yep, I’m standing on a chair.

Yet another tray full for the steamers

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Caught slacking. Get to work girls!

 The Tamalada: Part 9   Is it a Party or is it Work?
The first few go into the pot

 The Tamalada: Part 9   Is it a Party or is it Work?Assembly line action

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Fill it up!

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I thought I told them to get back to work…

 The Tamalada: Part 9   Is it a Party or is it Work?

Abby making her first tamale

 The Tamalada: Part 9   Is it a Party or is it Work?Tamale making 101

 The Tamalada: Part 9   Is it a Party or is it Work?

 The Tamalada: Part 9   Is it a Party or is it Work?

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 The Tamalada: Part 9   Is it a Party or is it Work?These are done!

 The Tamalada: Part 9   Is it a Party or is it Work?Steaming hot tamales!

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I think he likes it.

 The Tamalada: Part 9   Is it a Party or is it Work?oh yeah!

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Congratulating themselves on arriving just as the tamales were done! We’ll put them to work on clean-up. Ssh.

The Tamalada: Part 8 – Feria de los Flores

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Any party we throw has to have flowers, lots of them in every room. No tamalada would have been complete without them. My granddaughter Jasmine picked them all out at the Flower Market.

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The Tamalada: Part 6 – Delicious Shredded Pork

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No tamalada is complete without big mounds of succulent shredded pork to fill tamales with. You can use it with either red sauce or green, it lends itself to both with perfect equanimity. It’s easy to make, although it does take some time. Any left overs (doubtful) can be used for sopes, tacos, pork sandwiches, tortas, etc.

For this tamalada I made so much pork that I filled a tamale steamer!

Ingredients

Pork Shoulder cut into chunks (I had the butcher cut mine into quarters, quantity depends on how much you want to make). For this tamalada, I made about 30 pounds, but for this recipe, let’s just say four pounds of meat and use that as the base – bone in is best and don’t have the butcher trim off the fat.
2 Onions, quartered
3 Bay leaves
1 head of garlic
salt to taste
water

Wash chunks of pork and place into a large stockpot. Add onion, garlic, bay leaves, salt and cover with cold water. Cook on medium heat till meat is tender and breaks apart with a fork. Let cool, then shred and put aside till needed. Reserve the broth for masa and chile sauce. You can also freeze what’s left of the broth and use it as a stock for soups.

That’s it! It usually takes about 2 ½ hours.

The Tamalada: Part 4 – Rachel B. on How to Assemble a Tamale

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Rachel will show you how to assemble a tamale.

She’s making cheese and green chile tamales.

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The Tamalada: Part 3 – Sweet Perfection

Figs, raspberry masa and some walnuts.  Yum!

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Figs, raspberry masa and some walnuts. Yum!

When I was growing up, I loved tamale season and my favorites were the meat filled ones. I hated, absolutely loathed the sweet ones. Everyone in my family, especially my grandfather, loved the sweet ones but something about them just gave me the icks. Maybe it was the peanuts, maybe it was the peanut butter in the masa, maybe it was the fact that the taste of corn fought with the raisins, I don’t know but I never liked them.

As an adult, I thought I’d give the sweet tamales another try. I still had the icks but was determined to find a sweet tamale that I liked. My grandmother had once made some incredible strawberry tamales that I liked and so, over the years I’ve been experimenting with berries and various fillings on my quest for the perfect sweet tamale. I’ve made strawberry ones that were great, coconut ones, piña colada, almond, blackberry and apple cinnamon and they were all good tamales but nothing I couldn’t live without.

Yesterday, I invented the perfect sweet tamale. Raspberry flavored masa with a fig-walnut filling and a touch of raspberry syrup. Oh. My. God.

Want the recipe? I’d better write it down so I don’t forget it since I made it up on the fly.

I had been shopping for ingredients for my tamalada and had bought the things for pineapple tamales as well as for coconut tamales. I was in this little store in Glendale and spotted large trays of fresh raspberries on sale and right along side of them, boxes of fresh mission figs for 49 cents. Yowza! I love figs and I love raspberries so I grabbed all the boxes of figs and five trays of raspberries. Marissa asked, “What do you need those for?” and I said, “No idea but this is a great deal” and tossed them into the cart.

Yesterday, when I was preparing for the tamalada I started pulling out the stuff to make pineapple tamales when I saw the raspberries. Something clicked and I got into this state my kids used to call the Mom-recipe inventing robot mode. It’s weird really, almost a dreamlike trance where everything is on autopilot and images just pop into my head and somehow become a recipe. This is what I came up with.

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A stand mixer makes easy work of mixing the masa

Raspberry Tamales with Fig-Walnut Filling

3 lbs. raspberries, washed, hulled and patted dry
10 cups of prepared corn masa (can be ordered and bought ready made at Mexican bakeries or grocery stores)
4 lbs. fresh figs, washed
1 pound coarsely chopped walnuts
2 c. sugar for raspberries
1 tsp. allspice
3 tbsp. Chambord
2 cinnamon sticks
5 c. sugar for masa
2 more cups of sugar for syrup
Soaked corn husks

Wash raspberries and remove hulls. Gently pat them dry and put them into a heavy saucepan. Cover the raspberries just barely with cold water and add the two cinnamon sticks. Bring to a boil, then reduce to low heat and let simmer for about a half hour. Remove cinnamon sticks and slowly stir in 2 cups of sugar. I used brown Mexican cane sugar, but any sugar will do.

Once the raspberries are cooked down and the sugar is dissolved, about another ten minutes, turn off the stove and let cool.

Scoop out the cooled raspberries with a slotted spoon and puree them in the blender, leaving the water in the pot.

Push the puree through a very fine sieve into a bowl. Set aside.

Put the corn masa into a big mixing bowl, or if you have a KitchenAid stand mixer, which is what I used (Marissa and Rachel got it for my birthday present), put as much of the masa as you can into the mixing bowl. Make sure to use the splash guard if you’re using the mixer. Turn on the mixer on medium speed and then start pouring the puree little by little into the bowl. Add the sugar and allspice and let it mix. I set the speed up to the maximum and let it do its thing for about 15 minutes. You want a light masa, so it’s going to take some work. If you’re beating this by hand, it’s going to take a while and you’ll need someone to spot you. Use the heavy-duty mixer.

While the masa is being mixed, turn the stove back on and heat up the remaining water from the raspberries. Add the two tablespoons of Chambord. Bring to a boil and start stirring in the remaining two cups of sugar. Lower the flame and let cook, stirring constantly until the consistency is thick and syrupy. It takes about five to ten minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. Strain, using a fine sieve. If the small raspberry seeds bother you, double strain it through cheesecloth. I thought they added a little texture and dimension so didn’t bother. Set aside till you’re ready to assemble the tamales.

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Once the masa is thoroughly mixed, removed from the mixing bowl into a bigger bowl or large container. I used a disposable aluminum roasting pan. Set aside.

Roughly chop the fresh figs and walnuts. Using a spatula, turn the figs and walnuts into the masa. If the masa seems a little watery and not spreadable, add more masa with your spatula till it’s the right texture. You want something almost the consistency of thick peanut butter. It’s now ready to be spread on the corn husks.

Soak corn husks for about an hour in warm water and pat dry. Run your fingers along both sides to check texture. The smoother side is where you should be spreading the masa. Using the back of a spoon spread the masa from the bottom up in a fan pattern. Get about a quarter inch of masa on the husk. Using another spoon, drizzle a line of the raspberry syrup right down the middle. Fold the bottom of the husk up and wrap the tamale. (See Rachel Braver’s step-by-step photo instructions on how to wrap a tamale).

Once you’ve assembled and wrapped all your tamales, place them in a tamale steamer standing up, bottoms sides down. Depending on how many you fit in the tamale steamer, it could take anywhere from an hour to three for the tamales to be done. Make sure the steamer never runs out of water and make sure the tamales aren’t sitting in water. They have to be above it and cook only with the steam. Tamales are done when the masa is set and firm.

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I served these a little of the left over raspberry syrup on top and some homemade whipped cream. Garnish with a couple of fresh raspberries if you like. One of the comments I got was, “wow this is like a dense cake”. They are worth the effort and you can probably experiment to get this recipe smaller. I just tend to do things in huge batches.

The Tamalada: Part 1 – The Quest for Ingredients

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I’m having a tamalada tomorrow and, as I’ve invited about 30 people, have tons to do to get ready for it. A tamalada is a tamale-making party. Usually it’s with family and they all pitch in with both work and money to make dozens of tamales and each person gets to take some home. My roommate Rachel and I are throwing this one for friends as a kind of holiday present.

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I had it in my head to do some of pork, beef, chicken, cheese and chile, strawberry or pineapple ones, maybe even some coconut ones. Some of the people coming have never been to a tamalada before, nor have they made tamales so I wanted it to be special. Most people here are used to beef, pork or chicken tamales but don’t know just how diverse tamales can be. Just yesterday my friend Frank was telling me about his brother-in-law’s incredible tamales de atun (fresh caught tuna tamales) with cilantro and tomato.

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Early this morning my daughter-in-law Marissa and I drove into downtown Los Angeles to get flowers for decorations as well as ingredients for the tamales I plan to make. It was a cold morning and the grandkids were bundled up in their car seats excited to be having an almost dawn adventure with Mom and Grammy. We cranked up the heater and left Eagle Rock, taking the streets through Highland Park, then Lincoln Heights turned on Broadway to Alameda and headed into the downtown Warehouse District.

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Our first stop was the Flower Market. We parked the car, pulled the stroller out of the trunk and started walking down the heavily perfumed street to the Los Angeles Flower Market. I wanted some fresh flowers for the house but wasn’t sure what exactly I wanted. All I knew was that you can’t beat the prices at the Flower Market. I left the choice to Jasmine who chose clover, dahlias, white roses, pink orchids and birds of paradise. She was feeling a little exotic, I guess. She also begged me to buy plastic bags of red and white rose petals for sprinkling. Needless to say I bought them.

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After the Flower Market, we loaded up the car and then headed back down the street to Operetta, a small French café and bakery right across the street from the market for breakfast. Marissa and I had much need coffee, (me a latte and she a mocha), the kids had hot chocolate. We ordered a big breakfast and tucked in because we knew we had a long, hard day ahead of us.

We left Operetta warm and happy. One more trip into the Flower Market to pick up a wreath and then off we drove down Alameda to Central and the Warehouse District.

In the Warehouse District are all the grocery, produce, meat and seafood suppliers. You can get great deals for bulk items and, if you’re anything like me, you can bargain for better prices. The customer service is amazing and well worth the trip downtown. Where else can you buy 60 pounds of corn husks at bargain basement prices and have a nice man carry it for you the three blocks to your car? Where else can you shop and have nice people pack your trunk for you so that everything fits, then help you back out of a crowded and tight parking lot? The customer service is of the courtly old-fashioned Mexican variety and I revel in it.

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My daughter-in-law Marissa is a trooper. She had never been down to the Warehouse District, which can be a little off-putting as you drive through some of the seedier parts of downtown. Parking is always a challenge and she was completely unflappable. You’d have thought she had been doing this all her life.

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My granddaughter Jasmine was completely amazed by the great quantities of things but she stuck to me like glue and was absorbing everything with great interest, especially the haggling part. I am my father’s daughter – he loved to haggle and so do I, even when I know the prices are set. I still try. Marissa says I’m incorrigible but she laughs when she says it and I know she means she’s impressed. I haggled over tomatoes, chiles both dried and fresh. I got a deal on tamale cans and had a great time buying and negotiating price.

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About an hour and a half later, we left the Warehouse District with a packed car and really tired kids. We drove home and unpacked the car, then set off again for more errands.

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From Eagle Rock to Glendale, Glendale to Highland Park, Highland Park to Lincoln Heights and back again we collected tejocotes, guayabas (guavas), cana (sugar cane), raspberries, fresh figs, pork, onions, garlic, bay leaves, pineapple, coconut milk, ajonjolli (sesame seeds), nutmeg and various other odds and ends. At the end of the day, we had everything we needed and were ready to start in on the preparations for the tamalada.

My house looked something like a warehouse itself…

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Bags of pork and dried chiles Californias

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Tomatoes, pineapple and lots of garlic

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Chiles Pasillas

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Can’t make tamales without garlic

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Too many tomatoes? No such thing.

 The Tamalada: Part 1   The Quest for Ingredients

This is one tired, but very sweet daughter-in-law.

Isn’t she beautiful?

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