roommate

Quesadillas Lupita

The carne asada auesadilla waiting for toppings
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The carne asada quesadilla waiting for toppings

When we first moved here to the North Hollywood fixer upper house, we couldn’t cook. There wasn’t electricity for three weeks, we couldn’t move the stove in, obstacle after obstacle blocked us so we got to know the local eating places right away. On our first trip to the local Superior Market for some much needed coffee and pan dulce, we spotted a quesadilla truck parked on the curb. My roommate wasn’t excited but I sure was and as I dragged him to the truck grumbling, the smell hit him and he rapidly changed his mind.

Our first visit was hilarious. The truck owner, Alvaro is a character. As we hemmed and hawed trying to decide if we’d get a quesadilla or not, he made up a big one and proceeded to eat it right in front of us the whole time making orgasmic food noises, “mmmmmm, mmmmm, mmmmm”. When we finally decided and ordered, he wondered why were weren’t ordering more. He flirted, clowned around and all but capered and turned cartwheels around the truck. I was dying laughing. He didn’t need all that fanfare though it was highly entertaining and reminiscent of Tijuana vendor antics while waiting in line to cross the border.

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The Quesadillas Lupita truck

David ordered a carne asada quesadilla and I ordered nopales y hongos (cactus and mushrooms). The tortillas were big, homemade flour cooked on the grill. The quesadillas were stuffed to the max with cheese and filling. Beyond that there were all kinds of toppings to add along with chile verde or rojo. Once we’d made our $3.00 quesadillas and got them home, the smell torturing us in the truck we couldn’t wait to dig in. When we did, OH MY GOD! They were delectable, delicious, melt in your mouth happiness. We practically lived there for the next three weeks.

Once we got our kitchen working soundly, we rarely thought of the quesadilla truck because of the nature of this fixer-upper. Constant work and drama have kept us away but we’ve finally come to a place where we could go out and eat again, not out of necessity but for fun. The first place we thought of was Quesadillas Lupita.

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What shall I order?

Our afternoon trip wasn’t quite the same as our first. Alvaro seemed subdued but he let me take pictures. I full on expected him to clown for the camera but he refused shyly. Upon prodding, he whispered, “la chaparita es mi esposa” (the short girl there is my wife). LOL. I guess he’s been taken to task for his flirting and clowning so no photos of him in this post. You’ll just have to take my word that he’s an entertainer. The food on the other hand was the same, excellent melty goodness. I had the nopales y hongos again, David had carne asada y hongos and Phillip had plain carne asada. We filled our quesadillas with toppings till they couldn’t close, dripped on salsa and crema and dusted them with a little cotija and were on our way home. Happy munching ensued.

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Toppings!

The quesadillas from Quesadillas Lupita are luscious. The tortillas are made to order, they don’t skimp on ingredients and for $3.00 the portions are huge. They’re located on the market side of Etiwanda just off of Lankershim from 9:00 a.m. till about 3:00 p.m.

Squash Blossom Quesadillas (Quesadillas de flor de calabaza)

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The other day, I was out shopping at Superior with my roommate David who had disappeared down one of the aisles while I shopped for produce. I was after veggies for my caldo de res and was adding golden onions to a plastic bag when I spotted the delicate flash or orange. Ooh shiny!

I finished filling my bag of onions then wove my way through the crowded aisle to the object of my fascination, flor de calabaza or squash flower blossoms. Neatly tied in bunches the long orange flowers beckoned, whispering seductive words in my ear. Words like quesadillas, budin, stuffed and fried blossoms, soup, cake… omg. I had no defense against the beautiful orange and green flowers that could have been pumpkins had they been allowed to finish growing.

I couldn’t stay focused on the caldo. I just couldn’t. I HAD to have those blossoms. Had to. So I grabbed two bunches and surreptitiously snuck them into the shopping cart. We were budget shopping and I wasn’t supposed to stray. Still, they were squash flower blossoms. Well, actually these were pumpkin flowers. In the springtime when you find them they are from squash and at the end of summer, they are from pumpkin. Either way, they are delicious and bring back memories of a little back garden with my grandfather gently picking off some of the blossoms and of a kitchen that was redolent with aroma.

When I see certain foods, I see my beautiful Mexican grandmother in her apron at the stove. I can almost hear her voice and feel her incredibly soft little hands wrapping around mine as she shows me how to pinch a sope, roll out dough or some other wonder. Those delicate orange flowers are one of those evocative things that tug at my memory and my heart.

When we got home, I happily pulled my blossoms out of their bad and shooed David out of the kitchen while I set about to making the quesadillas I was longing for. I chopped tiny little squares of Mexican squash and thinly sliced onion then caramelized them in a little butter. Once they were fully caramelized, I removed the stamens from the blossoms and rough chopped the flowers, adding them to the onions and squash until just wilted. Then I started to assemble my quesadillas.

There are many different versions of the squash flower quesadilla. Sometimes I add diced poblano chile, garlic and omit the squash.
Usually, when I make them I take the time to make the corn tortillas by hand. They taste sooooo good when I do them that way, but this time I was so impromptu that I used fresh corn tortillas I had just bought from the tortillerilla. The quesadillas were still delicious and light but next time I won’t cheat.

Quesadillas de Flor de Calabaza/Squash Blossom Quesadillas

1 bunch of squash flower blossoms, cleaned and rough chopped
1 onion, halved then thinly sliced
1 Mexican squash (something like a zucchini) diced finely
Dash sea salt
1 tablespoon of butter
Queso fresco
Tortillas

Caramelize the squash and onions in the butter on a medium flame until well browned. Add the sea salt and squash flowers and cook for about two minutes, just till the flowers are wilted. Set aside.

In a heavy skillet or griddle, heat a corn tortilla then turn it over to the other side. Add thick slices of queso fresco and a scoopful of the squash mixture, top with another corn tortilla. Flip over and keep on heat until the cheese melts. Keep making them until you run out of filling.

Serve sliced in half with a little cream and salsa. Ricissimo!

Shopping for Latino Ingredients

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My roommate David is a foodie and a pretty darned good cook who is always up for some experimentation in the kitchen but his experience has been with Italian, Indian and American ingredients.  He doesn’t really understand Mexican food, but he loves it and I like teaching him how to make things.  Occasionally, he will suggest something that will turn my hair white like adding barley to my caldo de res, but I do my best not to beat him with the wooden spoons and gently explain that barley has no business in it.   Caldo de res is NOT beef and barley soup.

Every once in a while he’ll ask me if I need anything from the store and I’ll rattle off a list of Latino ingredients.  Sometimes he gets it and other times he can’t find it or remembers the words wrong.  It’s kinda hilarious.  The other day I sent him for piloncillo and he roamed the market looking for panocha (shorter, not conical) and was too embarrassed to ask a clerk for it because my son had gone and told him the slang for the same word (don’t ask – this is a family blog) so he came home with nada.  There went my capirotada idea.

Today we went into the market together.  Superior Market has a huge selection of the foods I love and as we shopped, I began to get an idea of just how alien it was to him.  Our quick shopping trip turned into a lengthier, leisurely class on Latino ingredients. The things I take so for granted were magic and wonder for David.

We started in the produce aisle.  I showed him the different between zucchini squash and the lighter (usually cheaper) Mexican version and explained the myriad virtues of the all powerful chayote.  Next up, how to pick a tuna (cactus or prickly pear).  The variety Superior had were the green ones, so delicious with lemon, salt and chile.

I showed him and had the carnicero give him tastes of different versions queso fresco so that he knew the difference in textures.  The real fun was showing him fun things like cachetas, pig feet, lengua and cabeza.  To his credit, he only flinched at the huge cow tongue wrapped in cellophane.  I promised to make him something delicious which got a dubious stare and an almost impercetable shudder.  I spared him the vision of hog’s heads and goat’s heads.  I’ll save that for when we go to a real carneceria, not the local market.  LOL.  I didn’t tell him the story of my Great-grandmother Teresita who, according to stories loved to eat fried pig eyes in a taco.  I think that would have freaked him out.

David has learned about Salsa Maggi, Knorr Suiza, Chamoy, the difference between cremas and chorizos and now knows some of the fundamentals of dried chiles and why we want cascabeles over California’s sometimes. I’ve walked him through panaderias and got him addicted to those delicious little gingerbread pig cookies we dip in coffee.  I’ve seen him blown away by the piping hot bollios we buy from the bakery counter.

In our shared kitchen, he’s starting to learn the different smells, tastes, purposes of what lies within the essential Latino pantry and getting to know what herbs and plants we will have in the garden. His excitement, wonder and fascination with our fabulous cultural patrimony of food  got me thinking that maybe Doña Lupe’s needs a pantry.  A post every so often focused on one Latino ingredient and it’s purpose.  What we use it for, why we love it, how versatile it is.  Que dicen? Shall I open the pantry?

Enfrijoladas, Chiles Toreados y un perro enchilado

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After all the intense summer heat of the past week, now that it’s finally cooler I have been craving Mexican comfort food. I wanted enfrijoladas, those rich, creamy bean and cheese bits of yummy that melt in your mouth. An enfriolada is something like an enchilada only a bean sauce is used instead of the red or green chile sauce. They can be made with either corn or flour tortillas, but I use flour because they make the dish extra soft and velvety. Enfrijoladas are not only great comfort food, they are very economical. Typically served with enfrijoladas are what we call Chiles Toreados which could mean either toasted chiles or bullfighter style chiles depending on who you’re talking to. Jorge Carbajosa over at Spanish Lesson has a good post on the word here. I use chiles jalapeños and thick slices of onion in mine.  Some people use Salsa Maggi for flavoring but I like Knorr Suissa.   The chiles are sliced into four pieces, toasted in oil along with the onions and then served over the enfrijoladas. My kids would kill me if I dared to take out the seeds since they like it hot and the whole point of toasting the chiles in such a manner is to make them hotter or mas bravos (like a bullfighter) but if you want them milder, go ahead and devein and seed them. The toasted chile flavor will still be fantastic and you’ll still get a bit of spice.

I had a pot of frijoles de la olla all ready, so I set about making my enfrijoladas and showed my roommate David how it was done. The local market was out of panela cheese which is what I typically use, so I ended up using a mixture of Monterey Jack and Queso Fresco. The dish is nothing if not versatile.

We sat down to watch Iron Chef America and have our dinner with the dog doing his typical sad-eyed gaze at us. He knows better than to beg and always gets a treat so what he did next shocked us all. Ozzy leapt and snatched, literally snatched a jalapeno off of David’s plate, gulped it down and ran.

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Chiles toreados

It happened so fast we were stunned. Really? Did he just eat a chile? Then he came back and his little tongue was just rapidly licking his lip and I felt so sorry for him, I grabbed some cold queso fresco and fed it to him hoping it would calm the burn. This is where it gets really wacky. The little monster ran away from me and David, who was now pouring him milk and attacked Phillip’s plate stealing three more chile slices in the process. We put away our dinner dishes, kept the jalapenos high and away from him but he was still whining and trying to jump up on countertops after them!

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El perro enchilado

My dog is a schnauzer mix and who knows what the heck the other part of him is but we’re certain it’s something Mexican and crazy. We kept trying to feed him milk but Ozzy was almost high from the chili rush and I literally had to hold him down and pour it into him. He was going nuts. I Googled hoping it wasn’t toxic and there wouldn’t be a vet visit in our near future. I kept feeding him cheese till he seemed to calm down, then I put him in bed. He slept quietly all night and woke up just fine but he scared the heck out of us. From now on, Chiles Toreados will be renamed in this house – Perro Enchilados (hot dogs) in his honor. Still shaking our heads over this loco dog who was sniffing at jalapenos this morning but didn’t have a chance to get to them.

Enfrijoladas

1 dozen flour tortillas

Cooked Beans

Milk

Oil for frying

Queso Panela (or Monterey Jack)

One onion, diced

Queso fresco

This recipe doesn’t really call for measurements, but I’ll try and estimate it out. In a large skillet, add about 1 tablespoon of oil and heat. Add in about 4 cups of frijoles de la olla and about a 1/4 to 1/2 cup of milk. Using a potato masher, mash the beans until smooth. Don’t use the masher until the beans are really hot or it won’t be so easy.

Remove from the heat and let cool.

Add to a blender once it’s cool enough and blend until perfectly smooth. Pour back into the skillet and re-heat.

Grate about a pound of cheese, either panela or Monterey Jack and dice the onion finely. Mix the grated cheese and onion together and put into a plate or bowl.

In another skillet heat up enough vegetable or canola oil to dip tortillas in. Using a set of tongs, quickly dip each flour tortilla (or corn if you prefer) into the oil, flipping over to get both sides. You don’t want them to fry to much. Literally about 30 seconds on each.

Once your tortillas are fried, using the tongs quickly dip them in the bean sauce. Try to do this quickly so your tortillas don’t fall apart. Corn tortillas hold up better, but flour ones are my favorite.

One tortilla at a time, place in baking dish, fill with the cheese mixture and roll. I use the tongs because they are usually too hot and delicate for me to adequately do with my hands.

Once all the tortillas are filled and rolled, spoon more bean mixture on top and pop into a hot 350 degree oven for about ten minutes. Just long enough for the cheese to fully melt.

To serve, sprinkle with crumbled queso fresco and top with chiles toreados. We usually have ours with Mexican rice or a salad but they are a filling and delicious meal all on their own.

Chiles Toreados

About 6-10 fresh jalapenos

Oil for frying

Tablespoon Knorr Suissa or Salsa Maggi

1 onion, halved and thickly sliced (optional)

Wash the jalapenos and cut off the ends. Slice down the middle and then again to get four long strips. In a cast iron or other heavy skillet, add just enough oil to coat the pan and heat on medium flame.

Once the oil is hot, add the chiles and onion slices. The oil will pop so be careful. Fry the chiles on both sides until just toasted, not letting them get too dark, then remove the chiles, lower the flame and continue to let the onions cook until well caramelized.

Throw the chiles back in and stir in the Knorr Suissa. Remove from heat and serve over the enfrijoladas.

Try not to have a crazy, jalapeno eating dog around.

Nano’s Fried Chicken

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My oldest son Albert is a fiend for my fried chicken.  He’s probably gonna scream and holler on the phone at me, but I call him Nano.  I never call him Albert even though he’s trained the rest of the family to do so.  He was a tiny preemie baby, nothing like the huge beast he is now and we called him Nanito, the nickname his father’s family dubbed him with the day he was born because he was so tiny.  The name stuck, he’s been Nano or Nanito ever since and he HATES it.  I can’t help it though, he’s still my baby boy that I’d do just about anything for.

Growing up, he was always asking me for fried chicken, coleslaw and mashed potatoes or my hamburgers.  When he moved to San Diego where he was stationed in the Navy, he’d occasionally show up with a pack of big Navy guys all ravenously hungry, hand me some money and ask me to make my fried chicken for his friends.  I never said no.  When he married, he asked me to teach his new wife how to make it and that didn’t go over so well, so he just had me make piles of it and he and his brother ate it all in one day.

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Nano is a big old beast now - I'm sure it's partly because of the chicken

With all the health problems I’ve had over the past year and a half, I’m not eating much in the way of fried foods.  I’d mostly given it up before getting ill, but a serious illness then a gall bladder removal really have me vigilant about what I eat and how I prepare it.  Fried chicken hasn’t been on my menu in a couple of years.

I had planned on doing a chicken salad today with the fresh chicken my roommate David brought home but he asked if I wouldn’t mind changing the menu to fried chicken.  I considered and figured I might as well do him a favor and make it.  Once in a great while is okay, right?  Yeah I talked myself into it and he totally twisted my arm.  I’m laughing at myself as I write this.

I don’t know how other people make fried chicken.  The only kind I had when I was growing up was Kentucky Fried or the Mexican Pollo Frito en Salsa de Cacahuate that I make on occasion.  It wasn’t until I married that I attempted it.  The recipes I tried, I didn’t really like so I fiddled with stuff and came up with my own way.  It’s simple, tasty and the batter is light and crunchy.  Best of all, my boy loves it.  It was a hit tonight too.

Nano’s Fried Chicken

1 large chicken, cut into pieces, trimmed, washed and patted dry
Olive oil
2 cups of flour, plus 1 cup
1 tbsp paprika
2 tbsp Knorr Suissa
Salt and pepper to taste
Dash allspice
3 eggs
2 tbsp buttermilk

In a medium sized bowl, mix together two cups of sifted flour with the paprika, Knorr Suissa, allspice salt and pepper, making sure its well blended.  In another bowl beat the eggs with the buttermilk and in the third bowl add the plain flour.

In a large cast iron skillet add enough olive oil to fry the chicken in.  I typically fill the pan halfway.  Heat on medium flame.

Salt the chicken lightly and then dredge first in the plain flour, next the egg mixture coating the chicken completely and finally the seasoned flour.

Carefully add in the chicken one piece at a time into the hot oil.  Fry for about 15 minutes on each side till golden brown on medium, then lower the flame and let the chicken cook another 10-15 minutes to ensure it’s cooked through.

Remove the chicken and drain on paper towels or brown paper.

That’s it!  Simple but it takes a little care, watch to make sure the chicken isn’t getting too dark, don’t keep turning it or your crust will fall off and make sure it’s cooked through.

Buen provecho!

Isis’ Impromptu Tea Party

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Lavender & Mint Tea Cakes

Isis is here.  Isis Lucia is my son Phillip’s four year old daughter and she lives in San Diego with her mom.  I rarely get to see her but last night Phillip brought her over to spend the weekend so we’re pretty excited.  What I wasn’t prepared for was the LLANTO.  Llanto is Spanish for a whole lotta crying.  Isis can cry at the drop of a hat.  Phillip is great with her, but boy can she cry.

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Don't let this happy face fool you, she can beat Niobe at crying.

This afternoon while we were waiting for Jasmine and Aiden to arrive and hopefully distract Isis from crying she dissolved into tears again.  Phillip was pulling out all the stops to get her to quit but nothing was working.  So Grammy (me), nursing a bad migraine opened my big mouth and said, “Isis want to make cake?”  Instant smile.

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Isis surveys her new domain from lofty heights

I scanned my pantry and couldn’t find what I needed to make cake but I did find one Duncan Hines box of white cake mix left behind by an old roommate.  Bingo.  Isis and I whipped up a boxed cake which I doctored with a little bourbon vanilla and buttermilk.  I rummaged in the fridge and found butter as well as a lemon.  Yay!  Buttercream in the making.  I whipped together butter and confectioners sugar with Isis wide eyed and happy wondering what I was doing.  I explained about buttercream while adding just a bit of buttermilk to make it extra creamy.  I showed her how to zest a lemon and that a little vanilla makes everything taste just a bit better.  She helped me squeeze lemon juice and add it to the buttercream, then tasted it and nodded approvingly. I think Grammy made points today.

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They didn't want tea but grape soda went well

The cake was in the oven and the lemon buttercream in the fridge when she started crying again.  My head throbbed.  Phillip looked desperate.  I IM’d Marissa to please hurry over with the cousins and got the reply back OMW.  The tears were still going and I scanned the yard looking, thinking and saw the little pink and white plastic table.  “Isis want to throw a tea party for your cousins?”  Crying stopped, she looks up and asks, “tea party?”  I nod carefully, trying not to cause ripples in the migraine.  “Si!” she chirps.

So now I have a tea party to pull out of um…somewhere.

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Jasmine and Isis comadreando at the tea party

I take the now done cake out of the oven cut it into petit four type rectangles, top it with a blob of lemon buttercream, decorate with lavender and mint from the garden, set the table quickly, find grape soda and some straws and just before she hits the internal Cry button one more time, Jasmine and Aiden walk in the door with presents for their cousin.  Tea party success!  Everyone enjoyed it and even Ozzy got a slice of cake (well he ate the buttercream right off it, Ozzy is a sucker for butter even when I pollute it with lemon).

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Let him eat cake!

It’s been two hours and still no llanto.  She’s too distracted with cousins, jumping on the bed, the trampoline, running with the dog and Jasmine who is the social director of the cousins.  Thank God.  Fingers crossed, hope it lasts.

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Even the big boys come to our tea parties

Omelettes

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Sometimes I make omelettes.  It’s usually very rare that I eat eggs.  Most of the time on those rare occasions that I eat an egg, it’s poached but every once in a blue moon I make omelettes.  When that happens, my house goes nuts because they love, love, love my omelettes.  I never start out knowing what kind of omelette it will be but they always turn out amazingly good.  I just reach for whatever’s in the fridge and it builds itself.

Like this morning…

I stumbled out of bed, aching for coffee and thinking of breakfast.  Opening the fridge, I saw the eggs and knew I’d be making an omelette.  I saw argula, shaved parmesan, potatoes and a half an onion.  I diced the potato thinly along with the onion and sauteed them in butter till brown and crispy, then slid them into a bowl.  Next up, six eggs with a little heavy cream – whisked those, added a little salt and cracked pepper and poured them into the potato pan.  The trick to a good omelette is having the patience to let the bottom set properly.  I use a low flame and slowly spatula the edges letting the runny part slide on down till most of it is cooked.

Once the omelette was set, I flipped it over, filled one side with the potato/onion mixture along with a couple of handfuls of fresh baby arugula and folded it.  I topped it with the nice grated parmesan and some cracked pepper and served it out to the roommate and my son Phillip who said, “Mom, I wish you’d make omelettes every day.”

Papaloquelite

papalo Papaloquelite

Papaloquelite or Papalo – the word is ancient like many Mexican words.  Papalotl means butterfly and the word quelite means greens and is used for many edible greens and grasses including lamb’s quarters which I’ve written about before.  My grandmother, who knew just about everything about plants and herbs told me that the plant got its name because its scent attracted butterflies.  The word hearkens back to Azteca/Mexica times just like the avocado (aguacatl), tomato (tomatl), chile, chocolate (chocolatl), maiz and the venerable frijole.  These staples form a large part of the cultural patrimony of Latin America and for me, to Mexico in particular.  In the U.S., it is slowly making its way into the Mexican or Latina American markets where the clientele knows what to do with it. Years ago I had to go buy it in small little Mexican shops where the store owner grew it in his backyard or grow it myself.  In Mexico, it grows rampant all over, its heady scent perfuming the air.
I love it.  Just the sight of it in the vegetable aisle at Superior market the other day got my heart racing and I was like a little girl, hopping up and down in the aisle as excited as my granddaughter gets over a pink cupcake.  My roommate David was looking at me in the oddest manner, wondering why his crazy Mexican, overly demonstrative business partner was in ecstasy over a humble green bunch of weeds.  “It’s papalo” I shrieked, “we HAVE to get papalo for the sopes”.  Looking at his skeptical face, I broke off a small leaf and told him to bite into it.  Immediately his face changed from bewilderment to sheer foodie pleasure as I knew it would.  I knew then I had him hooked and happily tucked my papalo into its little plastic bag and then into the shopping cart almost skipping (okay I actually did skip) down the aisle.

The Latin name for papaloquelite is Porophyllum ruderale and it is also known as Bolivian coriander though it is not a member of the coriander family.  Some seed companies sell it, likening it to a combo between arugula, coriander and rue.  There’s a wiki for it under Bolivian Coriander here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolivian_Coriander  There are a few other posts about it online, but there still isn’t a huge wealth of info on it.  I would love to hear your stories about it, any nutritional info, recipes etc. for a follow-up post on the herb.

Papalo has many uses.  The scent is not unlike cilantro but headier, more perfumey.  The leaves are wide and somewhat rippled, almost like watercress but without the crunch.  It’s hard to describe the taste – some people compare it to cilantro but there’s no comparison to me.  Papalo is its own.  While sometimes it takes the place of cilantro in dishes, its taste is unique.  It makes amazingly delicious salsas. I use it to top sopes instead of lettuce, I use it in salads,  The citrusey, almost arugula-like strength of it lends well to pork dishes in particular.  It makes a great lettuce substitute and I’ve used it in chopped up fresh on top of pastas.  I love mixing papalo with cilantro too.  One of my favorite meals is cilantro chicken served with white rice accompanied by a papalo and papaya salad.  It is AMAZING with papaya.  In Puebla, it is an important ingredient in the famous Cemita (a type of sandwich).  It also is a perfect companion for fishes dishes, especially ceviche.  David got hold of it last night and mixed it into some ice cream with lavender and basil and said it was great.  I’ll have to try that too.

Papalo or papaloquelite is an amazing herb, one I’m glad to see is becoming more available here.  My grandmother said it was good for me, but I have yet to find out the nutritional value of it.  Either way this is an herb worth investigating.  I

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